06 February 2009

Gio's Favorite Hotels & Restaurants in Italy

OUR FAVORITE HOTELS
Here are some great hotels we've found in Italy. Most were recommended by Steves and travelers on Trip Advisor, but we've listed only our favorites based on personal experience staying there. After our hotel reviews, you'll find notes on our favorite places to eat in Italy.

Cinque Terre: Albergo Pasquale in Monterosso al Mare: we paid e155 per night, for four nights, summer 2009: right on the beach, just through the tunnel and into Old Town, facing Piazza Garibaldi, this wonderful hotel offers the ideal location for watching the world go by in Cinque Terre. The rooms are modern, with a Mediterranean theme, and every room possesses a stunning view of the beach, harbor, and piazza. There's a lovely little patio space just outside the hotel, adjacent to the breakfast room, that fronts Via Fegina...a perfect place to spend the late afternoon siesta or enjoy an after dinner drink. Wi-Fi is available for a cost, but inexplicably, only one hotel guest at a time can log on. This is the hotel in the Old Town closest to the train station, another benefit while dragging luggage along on a sunny, warm day. Pasquale cannot be beat if you wish to be where the action is in this, the Cinque Terre's largest, busiest town. If you prefer a smaller place removed a bit more from the center of life in a town, with a little more privacy, too, see Locanda il Maestarle, below. One final note, on air conditioning: at Pasquale, we had the ability, in our room, to make the temperature like Chicago in February, if wanted to. At Locanda il Maestrale, be sure to test the unit in your room for cold air...we've spent some unbearably hot, sweaty nights there.

Cinque Terre: Locanda il Maestrale in Monterosso al Mare: we paid e135 per night for two nights, summer 2008: beautiful breakfast balcony and friendly, casual service. Gorgeous rooms. Located on a quiet portion of the main drag, a few blocks up from beach and the main square, Piazza Garibaldi. Ironically, while in a quiet locale, at night one can hear kids' laughing or screaming, sometimes, probably heading home up Via Roma. In extreme heat, test the air conditioning for cool air before accepting room (some rooms are cooler than others). About six blocks from train station.

Firenze: Hotel Pendini: we paid e88 per night for two nights, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, 2007: charming, luxurious, but not costly. Wonderful service. Free internet on computer in lobby. Located adjacent to Piazza Repubblica, with nice outdoor cafes weather permitting; centrally located. Dana didn't like the cold tile floors, and the room was a bit dusty, but a nice location and good service. Affordable, too, for such a large, historic city. Walking distance to all sites.

Firenze: Pensione Alessandra: we paid e150 per night for three nights, summer 2008: beautiful place located just two blocks from the Arno River and Ponte Vecchio; eager, friendly, GREAT service! Nice public lounge, but it doesn't have air (rooms do, however). Can walk everywhere, easily.

Genova: Locanda Palazzo Cicala: we paid e194 for one night, summer 2009, the only room Palazzo Cicala had available for this, our last night in Italia on this holiday: what a memorable experience! Our room was an enormous palatial suite (quite literally, since Cicala is a 17th Century Genovese palace) with 12 foot ceilings, double French doors, two double beds, a single bed, a sitting room, and marble and rich fabric everywhere. Genova, the capital of Liguria, while interesting and historic as a port city (and home to contemporary architect Enzo Piano), is also dirty, worn, and even somewhat dangerous, with pickpockets and even muggings (rare for Italy) commonplace. This hotel was our escape from it all. It faces Piazza San Lorenzo, and the beautiful cathedral of the same name. One of the most interesting hotels we've ever visited. If even for a day, we felt like royalty!

Roma: Residenza Cellini: we paid e170 a night for three nights, winter 2007: one of the most expensive hotels in which we've ever stayed...and it was a wonderful splurge. Stunning rooms, elegant public spaces, impeccable service, located near Piazza Repubblica; very convenient to Metro for all sites. Rome is not our favorite Italian city by a longshot, but if we ever return, the chaos and noise and pace of life in this city is completely softened at day's end at Residenza Cellini. So beautiful.

Stresa: Hotel Moderno: we paid e110 per night for two nights, summer 2008: clean, simple and neat rooms; nice lobby; easy walk to Lago di Maggiore (three-four blocks); right on main square; excellent location, good price...even if the service and vibe is rather businesslike for holiday travelers. But this is northern Italy, afterall, where things end to be a bit more serious, influenced by our Austrian and German friends to the north.

Venezia: Locanda al Leon: we paid e125 per night for three nights, summer 2009, and e110 per night for two nights, winter 2007: a home away from home! Very nice Venetian style rooms, with a good breakfast served in a small but charming room; friendly service in a casual setting; and the location, just a few blocks from the lagoon and 2.5 blocks from Piazza San Marco...it cannot be beaten. We absolutely love this place, not because of any single thing, but because of the combination of good price, excellent location, and warm (and cool in the summer!), comfortable rooms. As the hotel in which we spent our first night in Italy, back in December of 2007, this little place has a home in our hearts.


Coming soon: hotels in Sorrento and Siena

RESTAURANTS

CINQUE TERRE:
Il Casello at TBA
Coming soon







FIRENZE:

Trattoria 13 Gobbi at Via Del Pocellana 9 Red
A small, charming, slightly off-the-tourist route trattoria recommended by Rick Steves for its excellent food, reasonable prices, and local ambience. We've been here twice, now, once on Christmas Eve 2007, and then again in June of 2008. The service is a little impersonal, but efficient, and the overall experience is outstanding. There's also a delightful little bar a half block toward the river, on the corner, with great birra alla spina and delicious bellinis di Venezia!
Bar San Michele (across from Orsanmichele Church)
This little Italian bar features an amazing calzone with spinacci e ricotta cheese, decent drinks, pizza, and other typical bar fare, including indoor and outdoor seating (or, as always, the cheapest option, standing at the counter). The key here is the spinacci e ricotta calzone: we dream about this calzone. If you're in Firenze, you have to try one.


SIENA at ?
Coming soon







SORRENTO:

Da Franco's Pizzeria at Corso Italia 265 (near the lemon grove) A casual, comfortable pizzeria just a few blocks from Piazza Tasso featuring delicious Neopolitan-style pizza served on paper plates. Wooden bench seating and a loud, fun atmosphere--along with good prices and great food--make Da Franco's a favorite. Great portions!

More to follow...

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