Año Nuevo en España: A Week in Spain for New Year's 2009
• Fly Chicago to Barcelona, departing Fri afternoon 12/26 & arriving in Spain Sat morning 12/27
• 3 nights in Barcelona, Sat 12/27, Sun 12/28 & Mon 12/29
• High-Speed AVE Train from Barcelona to Madrid (3 hours), morning, Tue 12/30
• 4 nights in Madrid, Tues, 12/30, Wed 12/31, Thu 1/1 & Fri 1/2 (includes day trips to Toledo and Seville)
• Fly Madrid to Chicago, Sat morning 1/3
• Arrive in Chicago Sat afternoon 1/3
Fri Dec 26, 2008 - Sat Jan 3, 2009
FLIGHT (FRI 12/26): CHICAGO TO BARCELONA-EL PRAT DE LLOBREGAT
Take a taxi to O’Hare at 12:30 PM (Dana from LP, John from school in Evanston) for our 4:45 PM flight to Barcelona, Spain. Leave O’Hare at 4:45 PM via American Airlines Flight 6274 (operated by Iberia) departing from American Airlines Terminal 3 and arriving in Madrid’s Barajas Airport at 7:40 AM (flight time is 7 hrs 55 min). We arrive at Terminal 4S. Then take Iberia Airlines Flight 6122, departing Terminal 4S, at 9:30 AM and arriving in Barcelona, Spain at 10:40 AM on Saturday, 12/27 (flight time is 1 hr 10 min).
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DAY ONE (SAT 12/27): BARCELONA
Arrival & Check-in Hotel Catalonia Albinoni
Upon arrival at El Prat De Llobregat Airport at 10:40 AM, clear customs, collect any checked luggage, and proceed immediately out of the arrivals lobby to board the Aerobus (#A1), e4 each, paying the driver (say Para Placa de Catalunya, si? and Dos billetes, por favor); 3 per hour until Midnight; arrives 30 minutes later in the center of town at Placa de Catalunya, very close to our hotel (1 block). After exiting the bus, we’ll proceed on foot to Hotel Catalonia Albinoni, one block south of Placa de Catalunya at Avinguda Portal de l’Angel 17, phone 933-184-141, www.hoteles-catalonia.com, albinoni.reservas@hoteles-catalonia.es, e180 for double with bath for 3 nights (e540 total), with breakfast buffet included, and elevator. See map p. 82. Our hotel is in The Eixample neighborhood, uptown Barcelona, away from the Old City (chic shops, shady trees, wide sidewalks, many great tapas places). See p. 65 in Steves. This is where many of the Modernista sites are located. Upon arrival at the hotel, say Buenos dias. Reserva para Novick, por favor. Durante tres noches.
Afternoon: The Ramblas; Sagrada Familia
After checking into our hotel and getting settled, we’ll take Steves’ self-guided walk of the Ramblas, exploring and shopping (p. 44 in Steves), eventually arriving at the Columbus monument where the Ramblas hits the harbor (e2.30 each for elevator to top for view of the city).
It’s also worth noting that a number of streets lead out of Placa de Catalunya, not just Las Ramblas: the street called Passeig de Gracia is full of traffic and top shops; the street called Rambla de Catalunya is the most pedestrian-friendly; and the street called Avinguda Portal de l’Angel is stubby but shop-filled. We should eventually explore them all, but we’ll start today with Las Ramblas, one of Europe’s greatest boulevards/slices of life. Note: wear our money belts and bags over the shoulder: pickpockets/petty thieves work this strip.
Say Dos billetes, por favor. Built in 1888, this monument marks the place where King Ferdinand & Queen Isabel welcomed Columbus back to Spain after his first voyage to America. Note that all along the Ramblas we’ll see newspaper stands that also sell phone cards. Say Tiene usted una tarjeta telefonica para llamar a los Estados Unidos, por favor? Tiene la tarjeta de llamada Europa? During the walk, just to the right of the La Boqueria market (see p. 48), as you enter, we’ll see Pinotxo Bar, a great place to stop for a bite to eat (tapas, spinach tortillas, breakfast, et al; grab a stool across the way and people watch while we eat; owned by fun-loving Juan and his family). OR have a more sit-down kind of lunch at Bar Terrace Restaurant Ra, a lively terrace behind the market, featuring a lunchtime salad/pasta/wine meal for just e11. Open for lunch 10:00 AM-12:30 PM. Two big and popular sandwich chains to keep in mind in Barcelona are Pans & Company and Bocata.
After lunch and exploring and the Columbus monument, we’ll take the Metro to Sagrada Familia (METRO: Sagrada Familia). At the Metro station we will buy two T10 cards (about e7 each), giving us 10 rides a piece on the Metro during our stay in Barcelona. Say, Nos gustaria montar dos pases de diez (dee-ayth), por favor.
Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia, Barcelona
Sagrada Familia, a Gaudi Church, was worked on by the renowned Spanish Modernista architect Antoni Gaudi from 1883-1926, and is still a work in progress. Open 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM and costs e7 to enter (see self-guided tour on p. 66 in Steves). Say Nos gustaria que dos entradas, por favor. Gaudi descended from four generations of metal workers, and incorporated ironwork into his architecture. He developed and implemented new, unique approaches to structure and space in his buildings, seeking to develop a style that on one hand was contemporary, but on the other captured the essence of the Catalan identity. Nature and religious conservatism were key elements of this identity for Gaudi. Many of his buildings resemble grottoes or caves or other elements from nature.
After the church visit, we’ll take a late afternoon/early evening siesta at our hotel. Si, si, si.
Tonight: Font Magica & Dinner
After our siesta, we’ll take the METRO to the Espanya METRO stop, exit the station, and walk toward the towering National Palace, arriving by 8:00 or 8:30 PM to see Font Magica and a 20-minute music, water & colored light show that runs on the half-hour from 7:00-9:00 PM.
After the Font Magica, we can explore that area a bit, or simply return via Metro, to the Barri Gotic neighborhood (see p. 51) to dine at La Crema Canela (Jessica’s friend in Madrid made a 9:30 PM reservation for us; located 30 yards north of Placa Reial at Passatge de Madoz 6, phone 933-182-744; dinners e16-e20). Say, Tenemos una reserve para dos. El nombre es Novick.
Afterwards we can explore Barri Gotic at night. It is supposed to be full of life!
DAY TWO (SUN 12/28): BARCELONA
Morning: Guided Walking Tour of the Medieval City
After breakfast, we should head to the TI a few blocks away at Placa de Catalunya, Barcelona’s central square, to buy two tickets to the 10:00 AM two-hour walking tour of Barcelona (buy them about 20 minutes in advance; e10, each—from the desk, NOT a guide). A local English-speaking guide will give us a two-hour tour of the city, focusing on the Medieval story of Barcelona as we proceed from Placa de Catalunya through the cathedral neighborhood and finish at City Hall on Placa de Sant Jaume.
At noon on Sunday, if we can/choose to do so, we could see the traditional patriotic Catalunyan dance, Sardana, performed for free in front of the cathedral.
Afternoon: Chocolate Museum; Picasso; Shopping
After the tour, we’ll have a quick lunch at a place that looks inviting, and then head to the Chocolate Museum, which tells the story of chocolate from the Aztecs to the Europeans (chocolate was first unloaded and processed in the Old World through the port of Barcelona). Open 10:00 AM-3:00 PM, e4, each; www.museuxocolata.com; located a few blocks from the Picasso museum at Carrer Comerc 36, in the La Ribera neighborhood; METRO or an easy taxi ride. METRO: Jaume I (Placa de l’Angel), and walk a few blocks. Say Nos gustaria que dos entradas, por favor.
After the chocolate museum, we could visit the Museu Picasso, very close by (or if Dana would like to shop, instead, we could split up for a few hours). Open 10 AM-8 PM (closed tomorrow, Monday); e6.00 each. The ground floor has a required and convenient bag check, WCs, and a cafeteria. This crowded museum is typically slowest between 2:00 and 6:00 PM. See self-guided tour in Steves (p. 59). Say, Un billete, por favor or Dos billetes, por favor.
Picasso, to many the greatest artist of the 20th Century, spent his formative years (ages 14-21) in Barcelona, and this museum holds the best collection in Spain of his more realistic early works. While the artist was happy to donate works to this fine museum throughout his life, he sadly never saw it, himself, having sworn never to visit a fascist Spain. The collection of over 290 paintings is laid out for visitors in chronological order.
Then our siesta: sleeping, reading, a few drinks, editing our pics, call home, or a swim?
Tonight: Tapas in The Eixample
Tonight we’ll dine in The Eixample neighborhood, where our hotel is located, at Quasi Queviures (Qu Qu for short), serving upscale tapas, sandwiches, salads and more with a fun setting and high-energy; walk right through the enticing kitchen to reach the tables in back. e2 tapas, e5 dinner salads, e7 plates; open 8:00 PM to Midnight; located between Gran Via and Via Diputacio at Passeig de Gracia 24. We’ll plan to dine here at about 9:00 PM.
After dinner, we’ll explore The Eixample (meaning The Expansion) on foot.
DAY THREE (MON 12/29): BARCELONA
Morning: Sleep In; Casa Mila; Block of Discord
Sleep in later today, and after breakfast we’ll proceed to Casa Mila, Barcelona’s quintessential Modernista building and Gaudi’s last major work, 1906-10 (e8 each to see all three floors and the view from the top—includes a brief film—open 9:00 AM-6:30 PM). To reach Casa Mila, take METRO to Diagonal stop (see Steves ps. 69-70). Say, Dos entradas para los tres pisos, por favor (two tickets for all three floors, please).
Then just four blocks from Casa Mila (see map p. 67) we can walk down The Block of Discord, featuring an amazing block of competing 19th Century Modernista buildings (competing for originality and creativity).
Afternoon: Explore Beachfront & Forum; Gaudi’s Parc Guell; Open Time
After lunch, shopping, and strolling, we can take a taxi or METRO to the beachfront (METRO stop is Barceloneta). Then we can explore the beachfront, Citadel Park, and the Forum, a modern shopping area nothing like historic Barcelona (today’s city). See p. 76-77 in Steves. Bike rentals are available here, too.
If we’d like to see more wild-and-crazy Modernista sites, we could also visit Parc Guell, a colorful, surreal park at the center of an unfinished Gaudi-designed upscale housing development. Modeled in layout after an English garden, the mosaic medallions say “Park” in English. Open daily 10:00 AM to 8:00 PM, free. See Steves’ self-guided tour of the park and its detail and sites (the park now has a good bookshop, a Gaudi museum, some shopping, and plenty of art) on p. 71. To get to Parc Guell, take the Red Tourist bus OR bus #24 from Placa de Catalunya, which will leave us just a few blocks away, or an e6 taxi ride. Avoid taking the Metro here, since you’ll still need the bus, afterward.
Then our afternoon/early evening siesta.
Tonight
After our siesta, we’ll head out for our last night in Barcelona, visiting the Gothic quarter, near the cathedral, one last time. Consider dinner at Café de l’Academia, according to Steves, “a delightful place on a pretty square tucked away in the heart of the Barri Gotic, but patronized mainly by the neighbors. They serve honest cuisine from the market with Catalan roots.” E10 first courses, e15 second courses, open for dinner 8:45-11:30 PM, near City Hall square, off Carrer de Jaume I up Carrer Dagueria at Carrer Lledo 1; 933-198-253 (see map p. 90). After a nightcap, we’ll return to the hotel and pack for our early morning departure via high-speed train for Madrid, Spain’s capital.
DAY FOUR (TUES 12/30): BARCELONA TO MADRID
Early Morning: Checkout & Depart for Madrid
Have breakfast, checkout, and leave the hotel by 7:15 AM via taxi for La Estacion Sants station for the 8:30 AM high-speed AVE train (Train no. 3680, Car 7, Seats 13C & 13D) to Madrid (2 hrs 43 minutes; arrives at Madrid Atocha station at 11:13 AM; present our rail passes and reservations at the ticket window at Sants Station and then board. Already purchased in advance of the trip with our three-day Spain passes.
Tell the hotel desk before 7 AM, Nos gustaria un taxi a La Estacion Sants, por favor.
Tell the taxi driver, Para la Estacion Sants, por favor.
At Sants Station: present our railpasses and passports at the ticket window, and say, Nos gustaria que para validar estos pases, por favor (We would like to validate our passes, please). The clerk will write in our passport numbers and the first and last day our passes can be used. We should provide the clerk with a small slip of paper with the start and end dates in terms of validity for our passes (written European style): 30.12.08 – 29.2.09. Before leaving the window, we can also ask, Que numero de pista para Madrid, por favor? (What track number for Madrid, please?).
Then, since we have a three-day flexipass, we must write in ink in the first blank box on our passes, today’s date before we board the train (and we’ll do the same for our other train rides to Toledo and to/from Sevilla on those days). Otherwise the conductor on-board may think we’re trying to scam the system and gain days.
Arrival in Madrid at 11:13 AM; Guernica
Upon arrival at Atocha at 11:13 AM, we’ll exit the station immediately to briefly visit the museum directly across the street, our only real opportunity on this trip to see Picasso’s anti-war masterpiece, Guernica, in the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia (e6; open until 9:00 PM), We’ll take our bags with us, checking them at the museum (it is free to do so, per Steves). Say, Bolsa de comprobar, por favor? (Bag check, please?).
After Guernica, we’ll take the Madrid Metro to Puerta Del Sol, the city center, where our hotel is located (Metro stop: Sol). Note that the Atocha station is split into two halves: the AVE side and the Cercanias side: we want the AVE side. The two halves are separated by a corridor of shops. The AVE side has a pleasant, airy ticket office (Taquillas). The AVE side of the station is noteworthy: it’s located in the towering old station building, but inside contains a lush tropical garden in the grand hall. In the departure lounge on the upper floor, TV monitors announce track numbers. If we have questions, visit the Informacion counter next to Centro Servicios AVE. The terrorist bombing of March 11, 2004 took place at Atocha, and thus security is tight. A 36-foot glass memorial to those lost in the attack is located near the station’s Metro exit.
If we can’t find the Metro station after the museum, we should ask, Donde esta la estacion de metro, por favor?
Then we’ll grab the Metro at the Atocha RENFE station (note that the Metro stop called just Atocha is a different stop in town, not this one at the Atocha station). Once we locate the Metro, we’ll purchase two ten-ride Metrobus tickets at e6.40 each. Say, Nos gustaria montar dos pases de diez (dee-ayth), por favor.
We want the Sol Metro stop at Puerta del Sol, four stops away. Ask to confirm direction and train, or check signs. Say, Para Puerta del Sol?
Check In Hotel Europa
Our hotel is located kiddy corner from the Sol Metro station. Check into our hotel, Hotel Europa, Calle del Carmen 4: 915-212-900, www.hoteleuropa.net, info@hoteleuropa.net: double with private bath e110 per night, for 4 nights, plus e39 for breakfast for two for three mornings, plus 7% tax (TOTAL e513, cash or charge). The hotel also has a highly-recommended cafeteria and restaurant attached, fun for breakfast and a good buy any time of day, per Steves. Our room has a high-speed Internet cable included. Note that most hotels in Spain do not include breakfast, unlike in Italy. Note that Starbucks in always nearby, too, although local cafes serving hot drinks, pastries, and simple sandwiches are abundant. More touristy places offer various ham and egg deals.
Upon arrival at the Europa, say Buenos dias. Reserva para Novick, por favor. Durante cuatro noches.
Hotel Europa is located in the historic center of Madrid: all major sights are within a 20-minute walk or an e4 taxi ride from this square. Madrid is the hub of Spain, with 2.8 million people. It’s also Europe’s highest capital at 2,000 feet above sea level. It’s a young city, relatively speaking: King Phillip II moved the capital of Spain here from Toledo in 1561.
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Get Acquainted with Madrid Walk & Palacio Real
After getting settled, we’ll take Steves’ self-guided walk of Madrid between Puerta del Sol and Palacio Real (p. 211), enjoying lunch near Plaza Mayor. After lunch (see ps. 251-52 for recommended options), we’ll tour the Palacio Real, Europe’s third greatest palace (behind Versailles and Vienna’s Schonbrunn). e9 each with one-hour tour; open 9:30 AM-6:00 PM. See p. 219 in Steves for background. Say, Dos billetes, por favor.
Then we’ll head just north of Puerta del Sol (where our hotel is located) to the main shopping district between Puerta del Sol and Gran Via (see p. 241 in Steves), including the giant Spanish Department Store El Corte Ingles. From Puerta del Sol, go north a few blocks to Calle di Gran Via, and go left on Gran Via to reach the modern Plaza de Espana.
Then an early evening siesta at the hotel: reading, sleeping, editing pics, or some light shopping nearby.
Tonight: Flamenco, Dinner & Paseo
After our siesta and a drink at the hotel, we’ll head to see live Spanish Flamenco at 9:30 PM (one-hour show) at Las Carboneras (a few steps from Plaza Mayor); e30 each gets us entry and one drink. Reserved in advance for us by Jessica’s friend: Plaza del Conde de Miranda 1; phone is 915-428-677. We have a 9:30 PM reservation for a drink and snack, but the show actually begins at 10:30 PM. Say, Tenemos una reserva de nueve a treinta, por favor. El nombre es Novick.
Note that Plaza Mayor will also have a Christmas Market set up to explore before Flamenco, if we get there early.
After Flamenco, we’ll dine at Posada de la Villa, located just south of Plaza Mayor (close to our Flamenco show; see map p. 251) at Cava Baja 9. A nice restaurant—lamb and pork are specialties—at about e30 each for dinner. Say, Una mesa para dos, por favor.
Then we’ll take the evening Paseo closer to our hotel along Gran Via to Plaza de Espana (see map p. 216). A famous Spanish dessert is Churros con Chocolate, a deep-fried doughy treat (usually about e3) which one dunks in hot chocolate pudding. Steves recommends the Chocolaterias Valor chain, or Chocolateria San Gines, a few blocks off Puerta del Sol (see p. 255 for directions).
DAY FIVE (WED 12/31): MADRID
Morning: The Prado
After an early breakfast at Europa, we can take the 20-minute get-acquainted with Madrid walk from Puerta del Sol to the Prado: from Puerta del Sol walk three blocks south to Plaza del Angel & take the pedestrian walkway to the Prado along Huertas Street. We’ll visit the Prado when it opens at 9:00 AM to avoid crowds (e6, each).
As we near the Prado, we’ll pass a recommended bar/café on Huertas Street—on our right-hand side—called La Plateria Bar Museo, opens at 8:00 AM (with tapas, light meals, and hearty salads called raciones). We can enjoy lunch here after visiting the Prado.
We’ll spend about two hours in the Prado (be sure to pickup the free English floor plan as we enter). With 3,000+ paintings and countless masterpieces, this is Europe’s top collection of paintings. We’ll focus on the 14 masterpieces we wish to see (otherwise this museum can become overwhelming), per our printed plan (to be brought with us on the trip). Spanish masterpieces include Tres de Mayo by Francisco de Goya, Trinity and other works by El Greco, and works by Diego Velazquez, including Las Meninas--which some critics believe is the best painting ever created by human hands--and Valezquez’s The Drinkers. Apart from the renowned Spanish collection, we can see Albrecht’s Self-Portrait (German); Rubens’ The Three Graces (Flemish); Titian’s Venus with an Organist and a Dog (Venetian Renaissance); Fra Angelico’s The Annunciation; and Raphael’s Holy Family with Lamb (both Italian).
Afternoon: El Escorial & Valley of the Fallen
After lunch at La Plateria Bar Museo (see above), we’ll take the Metro to the Moncloa stop to catch the bus to El Escorial, the 16th Century palace built as headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition. Take bus #664, the fast bus from Madrid (about 45 minutes), from the basement of the Metro station (4 per hour; e3 each; pay driver). Once at the station in San Lorenzo de El Escorial, it’s just a 10-minute stroll to the palace: exit the bus station from the back ramp that leads over the parked buses, turn left, and follow the newly-cobbled pedestrian lane, Calle de San Juan. The street will veer to the right and become Calle Juan de Leyra. In a few short blocks it will dead-end at Duque de Medinaceli, where we’ll turn left and see the palace. Stairs lead past several eateries through a park past the TI and directly to the visitor entrance of the immense palace/monastery. We’ll buy combo tickets (e10, each), including entrance to the palace and the nearby Valley of the Fallen.
After the palace, we simply walk 10 minutes back to the town, and hire a taxi to take us to the Valley of the Fallen (about 15 minutes’ drive, wait for us for an hour, and then take us back to the bus stop: will run about e45).
The Valley of the Fallen, high in the Guadarrama mountains, features a 500-foot tall granite cross and a powerful underground monument to the victim’s of Spain’s bloody civil war (1936-39). In 1940, prison workers dug 220,000 tons of granite out of the hill beneath the cross to form an underground basilica. For another e2.50 each, we can take a funicular to the base of the cross for a commanding view after visiting the basilica. See Steves ps. 274-77 for an explanation of the site.
Then we return via taxi to the town, and catch the bus back to Madrid for our siesta before we begin our New Year’s Eve celebration.
New Year’s Eve Celebration, Puerta del Sol, Madrid
New Year’s Eve ‘09: Dinner & the
Eating of the Grapes on a Packed Puerta del Sol
We’ll have dinner tonight at La Finca de Susana, located just a few blocks east of Puerta del Sol and our hotel (see Steves’ p. 250) at Calle Arlaban 4. This wonderful little restaurant is so popular among locals that it opens for dinner at 8:30 PM (e7 meat or fish plates). DOES NOT ACCEPT RESERVATIONS. LINE UP BY 7:45 OR 8 PM?
Because Puerta del Sol gets so packed on New Year’s Eve (sort of like Time’s Square?), we’ll want to get out to the square, probably, by 10:00 PM.
At Puerta del Sol we’ll brave the crowds gathered to ring in the New Year, and join in the Spanish tradition of eating one grape with each chime of the clock at midnight to bring good luck in that month (note: three warning chimes will ring first, before the twelve chimes begin at the stroke of 12:00 AM).
Sometime after 12:30 AM, we’ll return to the hotel and try to get some sleep despite the noise from the street below.
DAY SIX (THU 1/1): MADRID & DINNER IN TOLEDO
Madrid’s Christmas Wish Tree
New Year’s Day: Sleep Late; Retiro Park; Toledo
We’ll sleep late today to recover from New Year’s Eve. After brunch (at the Europa? Or anywhere nearby that’s open), we’ll enjoy some down time, reading and relaxing. before taking the Metro to visit Retiro Park, once the private domain of kings and queens, but now a favorite place for Madrid residents to holiday (since Charles III opened the park to commoners in the 18th Century).
Retiro Park is open until dusk on New Year’s Day. The park features Madrid’s Christmas Wish Tree: the hollow cone of the tree is filled with helium balloons, each with a New Year’s wish attached. All of the balloons are released on the Epiphany, January 6th.
After exploring the park, we’ll take a short afternoon siesta before taking the 3:50 PM train to Toledo to wander the old city and have dinner (depends entirely on what’s open).
To get to Toledo, we’ll head to the Puerta de Atocha train station (only a 10-minute walk from Puerta del Sol, or take a taxi if we prefer) to catch the 3:50 PM AVE train, a 30-minute ride, e9.00, each, arriving Toledo at 4:20 PM. We do not have reservations for this train, and will need to approach the window with our railpasses and purchase a seat reservation. Say Tenemos pasos. Deseamos ir a Toledo, y volver a Madrid esta noche (We have passes. We want to go to Toledo, and return tonight). Then pay for reservations. We should get to Atocha early, since the holiday train schedule may be different. We’ll buy round trip seat reservations.
Before we board the train, we must write today’s date 1.1.09 in the second box on our railpasses, thus recording our second of three travel days allowed by our three-day Spain passes. The last day will be for Sevilla tomorrow.
Options for our return appear to include the 7:30 PM train back to Madrid Atocha OR the last train back to Madrid for the night, which departs Toledo at 9:30 PM (30 minutes back, either way).
Arrival in Toledo
Upon our arrival in Toledo, we will follow this plan to see all that’s open on a public holiday:
• Arrival: We’ll exit the station and take a taxi to the Cathedral, which closes at 6 PM on New Year’s Day. Say to the driver, Catedral de Toledo, por favor (about e5, but probably a holiday surcharge of e1 or e2, too). If a taxi is not available, we’ll have to take the bus to the town center, and a walk a few blocks to the Cathedral (see map p. 297 in Steves). If we take the bus to Plaza de Zocodover, proceed out of the station for the bus (e1 each, pay the driver), and take the #5, #6 or #22--say “Para Plaza de Zocodover?” to confirm with the driver.
• Cathedral: Toledo is Spain’s leading Catholic city with one of Europe’s best cathedrals and the capital of Spanish medieval souvenirs. For info on the Cathedral, see p. 302 in Steves (e6 each, tickets sold in shop across from church entrance; open until 6 PM today). We’ll have about an hour to see it. There is no WC in the Cathedral. Built from 1226 to 1495 (over about 250 years), it’s primarily Gothic, but also incorporates later styles.
• Plaza de Zocodover: After the Cathedral we’ll walk to Plaza de Zocodover (see map p. 297), to see Toledo’s main square. Toledo is the state capital of Castile-La Mancha, and Plaza de Zocodover is its central square. Old people hang out in this square in the morning and young people in the evening (the Paseo).
• Tourist Tram: A white goofy tourist tram leaves from the main square on 50-minute tours, and offers wonderful views from the city, including stunning views of the Tajo Gorge-- if it’s running on New Year’s Day (about e4 each; sit on the right-hand side, not behind the driver, for the best views; should leave at the top of each hour). You buy tickets from the TI at Calle de la Silleria 14.
• Alcazar: We also want to see the Alcazar from the outside (now closed for renovation): see p. 308 in Steves. It dominates the Toledo skyline, a huge former imperial residence built on the site of a former Roman, Visogothic and Moorish fortress. See map p. 297 to get there from Plaza de Zocodover.
• Bridges & Tajo River: In our walking we’ll also want to see two of the town’s bridges across the Tajo River, the Puente de San Martin (Old Bridge) and the Puente Nievo Alcantara (just east of Plaza de Zocodover; see map p. 297). The Alcantara is also known as the National Monument Bridge: Roman in origin and reconstructed during the Almanzor Period, it is one of the entrances to the town. During the Middle Ages merchandise and people went through this entrance to keep control of who came into the town. On the eastern side there is a fortified entrance crenelated with a half moon arch with another horseshoe arch inside. There is also a statue of San Idelfonso and the coat of arms of the Catholic Monarchs.
• Eat & Drink: Then we’ll find something to eat and drink before heading via taxi or bus back to the train station to catch our return train to Madrid. For dinner, we can try to visit one of Steves’ restaurants in Toledo (ps. 320-21), if open. Local specialties, if we opt for them, include partridge (perdiz), venison (venado), wild boar (jabali), roast suckling pig (cochinillo asado) and cordero (baby lamb). Pork and lamb, probably, for us! For dessert, we’ll enjoy a Spanish treat: mazapan. We’ll visit the Santa Tome shop on the Plaza for what many locals call the best in town—again, if open.
When ready to return to Madrid, we can take either the 7:30 PM train back to Atocha OR the last train back to Madrid for the night, which departs Toledo at 9:30 PM. Either way a 30-minute ride back to Atocha.
DAY SEVEN (FRI 1/2): DAY TRIP TO SEVILLE
Train to Seville
After an early breakfast at the hotel, we’ll head to Atocha for the 9:00 AM high-speed AVE train to Seville (Train no. 2090, Car 8, Seats 7D & 8D); arrives at Santa Justa station at 11:35 AM, a 2 hr 35 min ride). We can taxi from our hotel to Atocha. Say, Para la Estación de Atocha, por favor. AVE. Leave the hotel via taxi by 8:00 AM.
BEFORE WE LEAVE FOR THE STATION, THOUGH, we should ask the front desk to hire a taxi for us to Barajas Airport tomorrow morning, picking us up at the hotel at 5:30 AM. Say, Nos gustaría un taxi a Barajas mañana a las cinco treinta.
Our return train from San Justa station in Sevilla later today leaves at 5:45 PM (train 2171) and arrives back at Atocha in Madrid at 8:15 PM.
We will have had our railpasses already validated for the two-month period (back in Barcelona), and so all we have to do is check our reservations for the right car/seat on the train, and then write in pen the date (2.1.08) on our passes in the third box before boarding the train, so the conductor does not suspect us of trying to scam an extra day of use. No need to write anything upon our return trip tonight; it’s the same day.
Tour of Sevilla with Private Guide Marta Casals
Upon arrival at Seville’s wonderful Santa Justa station, we will be met by our private guide Marta Casals at 11:40 AM as follows below. We will need about e250 in cash for the tour, including e160 (Marta’s pay) plus e15 gratuity for Marta plus about e50 total for entry fees to bullring and cathedral and for tapas plus about e20 for taxis = e245. Dana may also do some shopping.
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Hello Mr. Novick,
I will be pleased to show you my city on January 2nd.
5 hours is not a lot but I think we can see a lot of interesting things. Besides the program you propose to me I recommend you to visit the Royal Palace (Alcazar).
So, the visit could be like this:
• 11.40 Meeting point at train Station with the tour guide.
• Take a taxi and go to Square of Spain, the biggest square in Seville decorated with a very nice collection of ceramic tiles.
• Then go to the city center on foot (10 min) crossing and visiting Santa Cruz Quarter (Old Jewish Quarter)
• Visit of Plaza de Toros, bullring and its museum
• Take some tapas around Plaza Nueva & the City Hall
• Visit the Cathedral Santa Maria de la Sede and Giralda Tower
• End of the visit. Perhaps some free time for shopping or to have a coffee. Then, you can take a taxi to go back to the train station.
The fees of this visit is 160 €, not including the tickets to monuments (5 € per person the Bull Ring, 8 € per person the Cathedral), tapas and taxi. Language: English Duration: 5 hours
Best Regards, Marta Casals
marta-casals@terra.es
http://www.private-guides.com/guide-in-spain/marta-1054/index.php
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Hello John,
Yes, 160 € in total for the visit. The time and meeting place is ok. The main exit where taxis are.
Perhaps we could see the Alcazar instead of Plaza de España, we will see on place. You can pay me the same day, not needed a deposit.
About tapas there is a range variety (meat, vegetables, cheese…), so I am sure there will be no problem for your wife.
Anyway, some days before we can confirm the visit by e-mail in case there is any change.
Have a good trip, if you need anything else please tell me.
Saludos, Marta marta-casals@terra.es
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Some Notes about Today’s Sites
Seville’s Cathedral, Santa Maria de la Sede, is the world’s largest Gothic church. It also contains the final resting place of Christopher Columbus, who started his voyages to the New World from here. This church is the third largest church in Europe, after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s in London. Took 120 years to build, began after a mosque was torn down in 1401 after the Reconquista. The Moors, who took the Iberian Peninsula in A.D. 711, were driven out of Spain about 700 years later, with the job finished around 1500, about the time of Columbus’ Discovery, ushering in Spain’s Golden Age. The cost to enter the church is about e8 each.
We’ll also visit Barrio Santa Cruz (p. 379). This neighborhood was once Seville’s thriving Jewish Quarter, and is now “a classy maze of lanes too narrow for cars with small plazas, tile-covered patios, and white-washed houses.” The narrow streets, designed to prevent cooling against hot Andalusian summer days, are called kissing lanes because the pathways are so narrow between buildings. Orange trees are everywhere because they never lose their shade, and thus provide a natural sun block. At Plaza de Dona Elvira, local artisans sell ceramics, embroidery, and fans.
For a bite to eat in the Barrio, we could visit Restaurante San Marco, cheap pizza and good Italian under the arches of a Moorish bath from the Middle Ages (good salads, pizza & pasta for about e8). Open 1:15 to 4:30 PM. Located at Calle Meson del Moro 6. See circled green area on map in Steves, p. 381. Or Marta will suggest a place for tapas.
In addition, we’ll visit Seville’s famous bullring for the 25-minute guided tour of the ring, museum and matador’s chapel (see p. 403 Steves). Will cost e5 each for a guided tour, which is required for visitors to the ring. Three tours per hour; open 9:30 AM-7:00 PM.
Return to Madrid
After the Cathedral. bullring & museum, Santa Cruz neighborhood, and shopping with tapas—all by horse-drawn carriage--we’ll say goodbye to Marta and taxi back to San Justo station for our 5:45 PM train back to Madrid (Train 2171, Car 8, Seats 7A & 8A), arriving at Atocha at 8:15 PM.
Our Last Night in Spain: Dinner & Mesones
Upon our return to Atocha, we will return to the hotel by about 8:30 PM for a final siesta before grabbing dinner and packing for our morning departure for Chicago. We should also confirm our 5:30 AM taxi to Barajas tomorrow morning at the front desk.
We’ll have dinner tonight at one of the following restaurants: Sobrina del Botin, a block downhill from Plaza Mayor at Cuchilleros 17, with excellent food and higher prices (e30 meals, open 8:00 PM-Midnight) OR La Bola Taberna, near the Royal Palace at Calle Bola 5, e18 specialty is cocido Madrileno or Madrid stew, consisting of meats, carrots and garbonzo beans. They have other items, too. Open 7:30-11:30 PM.
We can also visit some mesones: just west of Plaza Mayor, the lane called Cava de San Miguel is lined with long, skinny cave-like bars called mesones, for drinking and singing late into the night. See Steves p. 243. All depends on what we have left in the tank!
RETURN FLIGHT HOME (SAT 1/3): MADRID TO CHICAGO
Early Morning
Rise at 4:30 AM, checkout of our hotel, and take a pre-arranged taxi direct from our hotel at 5:30 AM to ensure arrival at the airport for about 6:00 AM. Will cost about 30-40 Euros (about a 20-min ride).
Upon arrival at Barajas Airport, check in, have breakfast, and board our 8:55 AM Iberia Airlines Flight 3500 from Terminal 4 to Frankfort, Germany (flight time is 2 hrs 40 mins), arriving in Frankfort in Terminal 2 at 11:35 AM.
Then board our 2:10 PM American Airlines Flight 83 from Frankfort’s Terminal 1 to Chicago O’Hare (flight time is 9 hrs 50 mins), arriving in Chicago at 5:00 PM.
Then take a taxi back to Lincoln Park, probably arriving about 6:30 PM on Saturday, 1/3.
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::IMPORTANT NOTES::
* Calculate 24-hour time easily by subtracting 12 and adding PM to the time (so that 17:00 is 17-12 = 5 PM).
* Commas and decimals are used in the opposite way on the continent (but not in Britain): e1,25 is one euro and 25 cents
* Calculate metric distance by cutting kilometers in half and adding 10% of the original (so that 100 km is 100/2 = 50 + 10 = 60 miles)
* Calculate temperature easily by doubling the Celsius temperature and adding 30 (will get you a temperature within just a few degrees, so that 21 C is 21x2 = 42 + 30 = 72 degrees F)
* To call the US using an international phone card we purchase in Europe: call the number on the card, and enter your PIN when prompted; then enter 001-area code-seven digit US number.
* When in need of a water closet consider upper floors of department stores, book stores, bars or restaurants. No need to buy anything, especially at restaurants with outdoor seating: they have no idea inside that you’re not a guest outside.
::EST COSTS AS OF 1 DECEMBER ‘08::
(based on 1.37 rate dollar to Euro, from our bank)
Apprx $5,700.00 excluding airfare
Apprx $7,800.00 US total, including air
($1086.00 US per day is the cost of this trip, or about $45.00 per hour while in Espana)
-Airfare: $2,093.00 on American & Iberia Airlines
-Lodging: (7 nights: 3 Barcelona; 4 Madrid): (e1050.00) apprx $1,440.00
-Transportation (car hires, trains, buses, taxis), including two 2nd class tickets for high-speed AVE train from Barcelona to Madrid and two 2nd class tickets for the high-speed AVE train from Madrid to Seville: (e1,000.00) apprx $1,370.00
-Tours (walking, sites): (e450.00): appx $620.00
-Per Diem (meals, admission fees, shopping, etc.; not including lodging): e235.00 x 7 = (e1,645.00) appx $2,255.00
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OUR SPANISH TRAVEL VOCABULARY
Hola
Adios
Buenos dias
Buenos tardes (2-10 PM)
Buenos noches (after 10 PM)
Mucho gusto (Pleased to meet you!)
Feliz Navidad (fay-leeth nah-bee-dahd) Merry Christmas
Feliz Ano Nuevo (Happy New Year)
Buena suerte (good luck)
Gracias and Muchas gracias
De nada (You’re welcome)
Por favor (also what you say to get the attention of a bartender in a tapas place)
Usted ed muy amable (You are very kind)
Lo siento. No comprendo. Habla usted Ingles?
Lo siento. Habla solo un poco de Espanol.
Perdone (pehr-doh-nay), donde estan los servicios (dohn-day ay-stahn los sehr-bee-thee-ohs) is Excuse me, where are the restooms?
Donde esta…? (Where is…?)
Buenos dias. La reserva para Novick para tres noches. Me llamo John Novick (for checking in our hotels).
Una mesa para dos, por favor.
Un momento, por favor
Tiene…? (Do you have?)
Me/Nos gustaria… (I/We would like…)
Barra (counter), mesa (table), terraza (terrace)
Un pincho (bite-sized tapas), una tapa (larger tapas), and una racion (x-large serving)
Una cana (small draft beer)
Cerveza de barril (beer on tap)
Agua mineral sin gas (water without gas)
Café con leche
Uno mas, por favor
Caliente/frio (hot/cold)
Corto/largo (small/large)
Pescado (fish)/Marisco (seafood)
Verduras (vegetables)
Churros con chocolate
Todo estuvo muy bien (Everything was great)
La cuenta (the bill)
Le pagamas ahora (Can we pay now?)
Cuanto cuesta? (How much does it cost?)
Recibo (receipt)
A que hora? (At what time?)
Nos hace (ah-thay) una photo?
Un billete/Dos billetes
Es tan bonito (It is so beautiful)
Perdone, donde hay un cajero? (Excuse me, where is a cash machine?
Una balsa, por favor (a bag, please)
Dios mio (My goodness!)
Arriba/Abajo (up/down)
Bueno/Malo (Good/Bad)
Sin salada (no entry)
Iglesia (church)
Beso (kiss)
Te quiero (tay-kee-ehr-oh) I love you)
A _____, por favor (To ______, please – for taxis)
Aquiesta bien (Here is fine – for taxi’s to drop us off)
Dos billetes para Toledo, de iday vuelta (Two tickets to Toledo, round trip)
Donde esta la esctacion? (Where is the station?)
Via is train track; coche is train car; transbordo is transfer trains; horario is schedule; hora salida is departure time; anden is platform; destino is destination; con retrasso is late train.
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