Itinerary: 9 Nights in England followed by 5 Nights in Italia

English Entrée, Italian Dolce
Our 2009 Summer Excursion to England e Italia

-9 Nights in England
-5 Nights in Italy
-In England: Bath (& Stonhenge), The Cotswolds & London Town
-In Italia: Cinque Terre & Genova

Thursday 25 June – Friday 10 July 2009

OVERVIEW OF ITINERARY
-Depart from Chicago O’Hare Terminal One for London Heathrow via United Airlines Flight 928 at 6:05 PM on Thursday, 6/25; arrive at London Heathrow Terminal One at 8:25 AM (0 stop, 8 hrs 20 min)

-Three Nights in Bath, Friday, Saturday & Sunday, 6-26 through 6-28 (with a guided day trip to Stonehenge on Sunday)

-Two Nights in The Cotswolds, Monday & Tuesday, 6-29 & 30 (Stow-on-the-Wold, Bourton-on-the-Water, Moreton-in-Marsh, Chipping Campden & Broadway)

-Four Nights in London, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday & Saturday, 7/1 thru 7/5

-Four Nights in Cinque Terre (Monterosso), 7/5 though 7/8, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday

-One Night in Genova, 7/9, Thursday

-Depart from Genoa Cristoforo Columbo Airport for Chicago O’Hare via United Airlines Flight 9282 (operated by Dolomiti Airlines) at 12:05 PM for Munich on Friday, 7/10 (1 hr 35 min); arrive at Munich-Franz Joseph Airport Terminal Two at 1:40 PM; depart Munich Terminal Two via United Airlines Flight 8855 (operated by Deutsche-Lufthansa) at 3:40 PM, arriving at Chicago O’Hare Terminal 5 at 6:15 PM Friday, 7/10 (9 hrs 35 min)

FLIGHT: CHICAGO TO LONDON: THU JUNE 25
We’ll depart Chicago O’Hare (Terminal 1) for London via the 6:05 PM United Airlines Flight 928: arrive at London, England’s Heathrow Airport (Terminal 1) at 8:25 AM England-time on Friday, 6/26. Flight time is 8 hours and 20 minutes.

DAY ONE: BATH: FRI JUNE 26
Heathrow Airport to Bath:
After clearing customs, collecting any checked bags, and freshening up a bit, we’ll take the 10:15 AM National Express coach bus from Heathrow’s central bus station to Bath Spa bus station on Avon Street (38.50 pnds total for two people, a 2 hour 35 min ride; www.nationalexpress.com; we have already paid for this journey, and must present the e-ticket we received to the driver upon boarding…it’s among our travel papers).

Arrival in Bath: Check in Three Abbey Green
We should arrive in Bath at the bus station on Avon Street at 12:50 PM (see map in Steves, p. 278). Our hotel, Three Abbey Green, is just a few blocks away (a 10 or 15 minute walk or a 4-5 pnd taxi ride, depending on how we feel).

Our hotel in Bath is The Abbey Green: +44 (0)1225 428558; Fax: +44 (0)1225 31666; stay@threeabbeygreen.com;
www.threeabbeygreen.com. 125 pnds per night for 3 nights, or 375 pnds total. We will have already paid a 20 pnd deposit to reserve the room. We must pay the balance in cash upon arrival for The Abbey Green (355 pnds).

We have reserved the Sycamore Room, with a king bed, en suite bath/shower, and windows opening to the historic square, Abbey Green. The hotel is located right in the centre of historic Bath. A town house, some of it built as early as 1658, the hotel has just seven rooms over three floors with no lift. Just a couple minutes walk from the train and bus stations and just 50m from the Abbey and Roman Baths. We will have arranged for a 1:00 PM check-in.

Today: Lunch at Pump Room, Tour Roman Baths, Shopping/Strolling, Visit Abbey
After getting settled in the hotel, we’ll begin our site-seeing with lunch in the Roman Bath Pump Room, a restaurant and site in itself (about 12 pnds each; we will have made a reservation for 1:45 PM by emailing romanbaths_bookings@bathnes.gov.uk or calling 01225 444477). Convenient WCs can be found in the space between the baths and the pump room.

After lunch we’ll tour of the Roman and Medieval baths (see Steves p. 267), just 50 yards from our hotel (11-12 pnds each). After touring the baths, we’ll walk the center of town, shopping and getting our bearings (see color map in our guidebook).

After shopping and walking—we can proceed back to the Abbey area, where our hotel is, to tour Bath’s historic 500-year-old abbey (2.50 pnds each, last entry at 5:00 PM, see p. 269 for details).

Then we’ll return to the hotel at about 5:30 PM for a siesta before dinner.

Tonight: Dinner at Tilley’s
Then we’ll dine near our hotel at Tilley’s Bistro (build your own meal with 7 pnd starters), healthy French, vegetarian and English meals with candlelight ambience. Highly recommended by Steves. Our hotel will already have made a reservation under “John Novick” for 7:45 PM tonight. Located at 3 North Parade Passage, just a block south of the Abbey. Note that Tilley’s only accepts reservations by phone at 01225 484200.

After dinner at Tilley’s, we’ll head back to the hotel for the night, to relax and get some sleep—unless we still have energy, and wish to walk the town at night and have a drink at the bar of a pub.

DAY TWO: BATH: SAT JUNE 27
Morning: Walking Tour
This morning after breakfast at the hotel we’ll take the free two-hour walking tour (departing from in front of the Pump Room) beginning at 10:30 AM. This tour, free of charge, is offered by the Mayor’s Corps of Honorary Guides, and has an excellent reputation. The guides, all volunteers for the town, do not accept tips.

Afternoon: Lunch/Shopping, Royal Crescent, Pulteney Bridge & Gardens (maybe Avon River Cruise) and Guildhall Market
After the walking tour, we can enjoy lunch in town, at either Wagamama, 1 York Buildings, George Street, one of a stylish, youthful chain of modern noodle shops OR Browns, which fills an old police station right across from the Abbey with 8 to 15 pnd meals and a nice terrace if the weather is good (located just a half-block east of the Abbey).

After lunch, we can stroll the town, again, and shop, ultimately visiting the Royal Crescent, the stately Georgian/Neoclassical buildings from Bath’s late 18th Century glory days, per Steves. We will visit one of the homes here, the Georgian House at Number 1 Royal Crescent (corner of Brock Street & Royal Crescent, see ps. 270-1), to see how aristocrats lived in the 18th Century. Open until 5:00 PM today, but last entry at 4:30 PM. Admission is 5 pnds each, and there is a 2 pnd guidebook available.

Then we could visit the Pulteney Bridge, sort of an English version of Florence’s Ponte Vecchio (costs about a pound to enter the lovely English gardens below the bridge, if it’s a nice day; definitely worth the stop). Finally, just across from the bridge, is Guildhall Market, a small mall, worth exploring.

Then a siesta at the hotel.

Tonight: City Bus Tour; Gerrick’s Head Pub
After a siesta we’ll catch the city bus tour at the nearest of 17 sign-posted pickup points (we’ll plan to board about 6:20 PM). We want the 50-minute downtown tour for about 10 pnds, each (simply pay the driver upon boarding). The last tour departs at 7:00 PM.

Then we’ll have dinner tonight at about 6:30 PM at Gerrick’s Head Pub, located to the left and behind Theatre Royal as you face it. Described as a classy pub with outdoor seating for great people watching (a pricey dinner menu, about 12 pnds, each). Address is 8 St. John’s place.

Then we could stroll or relax at a pub over a drink, i.e., The Old Green Tree in the town center on Green Street.

DAY THREE: BATH & DAY TRIP TO STONEHENGE: SUN JUNE 28
Morning: Sleep In; Brunch; Avon River Cruise OR Costume Museum
After sleeping in a bit and enjoying a late breakfast/early lunch, we could catch a river cruise near Pulteney Bridge (which we visited yesterday), across the bridge, at Pulteney Weir (about 8 pnds each for a two-way 60 minute cruise to Bathampton and back; WCs on board). Just take whatever boat leaves next OR we could visit the Costume Museum instead of the river cruise, if the weather’s bad (featuring displays on over 400 years of fashion): about 7 pnds each (see p. 271 in Steves).

Afternoon: Stonehenge & Lacock
Then we’ll meet at the Glass House shop on the corner of Orange Grove (near the Abbey) by 1:00 PM for the half-day Mad Max Mini Bus Tour of Stonehenge and the countryside village of Lacock (departs at 1:15 PM). Costs 15 pnds each, including the 7 pnds needed for entry to Stonehenge (we must pay cash on the tour; no credit cards accepted). We’ve already reserved our places for this tour at http://www.madmax.abel.co.uk (see confirmation email). We’ll return to Bath by about 5:15 PM.

Tonight: Our Last Night in Bath
After Stonehenge, we’ll enjoy a siesta at the hotel for a few hours, and then have dinner at Martini Restaurant at 9 George Street at 7:15 PM, “a hopping, jovial, purely Italian restaurant” open 6:00 to 10:30 PM. Our hotel will have already made a reservation for us under the name “John Novick” for 7:15 PM tonight.

Afterwards we can take one last look around Bath, shopping and strolling, before we return home to pack for our morning departure for The Cotswolds. We’ll have to depart the hotel in the morning for the train station no later than 9:10 AM.

DAY FOUR: BATH TO THE COTSWOLDS (STOW-ON-THE-WOLD): MON JUNE 29
Early Morning: Train to Cotswolds; Check-in Hotel; Walk Stow-on-the-Wold
After breakfast at the hotel, checkout and proceed directly to the train station no later than 9:10 AM (on foot or by taxi) for the ride to The Cotswolds (Moreton-in-Marsh station).

We have already purchased tickets for the 9:43 AM train from Bath Spa to Moreton-in-Marsh, a ride of 2 hours and 13 minutes (includes one change in Reading), arriving at Moreton-in-Marsh at 11:56 AM.

NOTE THAT WE’LL NEED OUR CONFIRMATION EMAIL AND CREDIT CARD TO COLLECT OUR TICKETS AT THE BATH SPA STATION, FOR THIS JOURNEY AND FOR OUR TRIP ON 1 JULY FROM MORETEN-IN-MARCH TO LONDON’S PADDINGTON STATION. We paid a total of 77 pounds (about $120.00) for all English train travel on this trip.

Then, upon arrival at the station at 11:56 AM, we will meet our pre-arranged taxi at noon to take us to our hotel in Stow-on-the-Wold (The Stow Lodge Hotel). Our taxi is by Tony Luker, cotswoldtaxis@aol.com; chris@stowlodge.com; mobile phone is 0771-0117471. Cost for the taxi will be about 10 pnds.

We will have pre-arranged with this same company to take us from our hotel in Stow at 10:00 AM back to the train station on Wednesday when we depart the Cotswolds for London by the 10:48 train.

The Stow Lodge Hotel is on the Square. Stow-on-the-Wold. Cheltenham. Gloucestershire. Tel No. +44 (0) 1451 830485; enquiries@stowlodge.com; http://www.stowlodgehotel.co.uk. We have reserved a room with a king bed overlooking the church, for two nights (including private bath/shower and breakfast) for 119 pnds per night (238 total pnds, but we will have already paid a 70 pnd deposit, meaning we will owe 168 pnds upon arrival).

Afternoon: Lunch at King’s Arms; Explore Stow
After getting settled in the hotel, we’ll have lunch at the King’s Arms at 1:30 PM (email info@thekingsarmsstow.co.uk to make a reservation), not in the pub on the ground floor, but upstairs, where they serve excellent food known as “English with a twist.” The King’s Arms is located across the square and to the right of our hotel, next to the TI. The King’s Arms building, in the 1600s, was the main stopping post between London and Birmingham. Today it’s known for great food (the upstairs restaurant is highly recommended, with 15-20 pnd meals). Stow was fiercely loyal to the crown during the English Civil War, thus all of the royal allusions in the town.

After lunch we’ll take Steves’ self-guided walk of Stow-on-the-Wold (p. 351 in guidebook), starting with the stocks on the square, followed by a siesta at the hotel.

Tonight: Scenic Walk with Dinner in Broadwell
At about 6:30 PM tonight we’ll take a scenic countryside walk (about 30 minutes) past the Old Roman Well to the village of Broadwell for dinner at The Fox Inn, serving quality pub dinners (open for dinner 6:00 to 9:00 PM; located on the village green). Then we’ll checkout Broadwell before walking back to Stow for the night. We could have a nightcap at a Stow pub, if we like.

DAY FIVE: THE COTSWOLDS: TUE JUNE 30
WALK TO BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER; THEN BUS TO CHIPPING CAMPDEN & BROADWAY

Morning & Early Afternoon:
After breakfast at the hotel, we’ll head out by 8:30 AM for the walk from Stow-on-the-Wold to the nearby village of Burton-on-the-Water:

WALK FROM STOW TO BURTON-ON-THE-WATER & ACROSS MEADOWS AND MILLS TO LOWE SLAUGHTER
Distance: 6.5 km/4 miles
Time: Allow 2-3 hrs

Starting from St Edward’s Hall, leave Stow Square following Church Street, walk past the church, to reach Sheep Street. Cross at the traffic lights and walk along Wragg’s Row to cross Back Walls into the burial ground. Leave the cemetery by the
second gate on your right and walk down South Hill. When you are about 150 metres past Bretton House cross the Fosse Way to a track with a footpath sign next to Quarwood Cottage. Follow the track to a field. Cross the field into woodland and continue down through Nether Swell Manor Farm and the paddock beyond, to reach Hyde Mill.

Cross the bridge and walk round the farm buildings. Turn right/signed Lower Slaughter. Turn left through the metal kissing gate to a small bridge and follow the path across four fields. Cross a stream and turn right through the gate. Cross the field to the gate in the far left corner. Turn half left to follow the sign to Lower Slaughter across the next three fields. Just before the end of the third field turn right through a farm gate then turn left to follow the hedge line, past the cricket ground then turn right to join the road. Turn left keeping the church wall on left, follow it round to the churchyard.

Cross the road and turn left to follow the River Eye on the path around to the right. Continue along to a metal gate leading to a tarmac footpath across two fields to The Coach and Horses on the Fosse Way. Cross the Fosse and turn right to a junction, turn left down Station Road towards Bourton. About 50 metres past Meadow Way on your left, cross the road and take the path alongside the playing fields. Pass the church on your left to reach Bourton High Street. We’ll spend an hour or so exploring Burton.

Late Morning/Afternoon: Burton-on-the-Water to Chipping Camden
Then instead of walking back retracing our steps to Stow, we’ll catch the 12:35 #855 bus in Bourton-on-the-Water (on High Street, at the Edinburgh Wool Shop) to Moreton-in-Marsh, arriving in Moreton at 12:55 PM. Then we’ll take the #22 bus from Moreton (departs from High Street, Corn Exchange) at 1:45 PM to Chipping Camden (we’ll have some time to checkout Moreton, first), arriving at Chipping Campden at 2:12 PM.

In Chipping Camden, we’ll spend a few hours exploring the town (see p. 340 in Steves), enjoying strolling, shopping, and a leisurely lunch. Check the guidebook for some good choices for lunch, including Eight Bells, the Volunteer Inn, and the Lygon Arms Pub.

Then at about 3:45 PM we could, if we choose, walk to the nearby village of Broadway (see path below). After exploring Broadway, we’ll need to take the 5:37 PM bus from Broadway (departing from High Street, the Lygon Arms) to Moreton-in-Marsh (bus #21)—arriving in Moreton at 6:00 PM. Then we’ll immediately grab the 6:05 PM #801 bus from Moreton (High Street, Town Hall) back to Stow (arriving in Stow/Police Station at 6:25 PM). If we just miss the 6:05 PM bus to Stow, the next one isn’t until 7:15 PM (each is a 10-minute ride).

If we decide to skip Broadway and return to Stow from Chipping Campden, buses back to Moreton from High Street/Noel Arms include a 3:25 PM, 3:45 PM, or 6:30 PM.

WALK FROM CHIPPING CAMDEN TO BROADWAY TOWER & VILLAGE OF BROADWAY
Distance: 4 miles (8 round trip, but we’ll walk one way, there)

Walking west along the High Street, turn right at St Catharine's Catholic Church, turn right into Back lane, at the junction turn left into Hoo Lane. The roadway now becomes a green lane. Please note the footpath and the bridlepath are segregated for the benefit of all. Proceed to the top of the green lane turning left into Kingscomb Lane, then following the signposts turn right along a field edge path to the stile set between two ash trees. Turn left and walk across the top of Dovers Hill enjoying the extensive views to the West and the Malvern Hills, taking in both the OS column and Griggs Topograph.

Leave this National Trust property through the car park, turn left onto the road and then turn right at the cross-roads. Make sure you cross and use the footpath on the left-hand side of the road set above the edge of an arable field. A stone stile puts you into a small enclosure, bear left to a wall gap, walk through a small wooded area and the pathway opens out to the Green Mile, believed to have originally been a leisure carriage drive. Please note no horse riding is permitted on the Green Mile.

As denoted by its name this track is one mile long. The footpath then crosses a wall stile and cuts diagonally across two arable fields to meet and cross Buckle Street. Go straight across Buckle Street through a third arable field to reach the stile onto Fish Hill. Turn right after crossing the stile and follow the path towards the brow of Fish Hill. A safe crossing point is well signed to take you over the busy A44. Climb a short bank and then follow the path to the right, which swings left in light woodland to join a rising hollow-way. Leave the wood into pastureland, up through a lateral valley, pass through a gateway, keep to the left-hand flank of the hawthorn dappled lateral valley to a stile directly below Broadway Tower.

Broadway Tower is set on an ancient beacon site and built as a token of love. The Tower is open and for a small fee you may climb to the very top and enjoy the extensive views across the Worcestershire countryside.

If you wish to extend your walk, then the pathway down to the picturesque village of Broadway is well marked and will add another mile to your walk.

Then, after exploring Broadway for an hour, we’ll need to take the 5:37 PM bus from Broadway (departing from High Street, the Lygon Arms) to Moreton-in-Marsh (bus #21)—arriving in Moreton at 6:00 PM. Then we’ll immediately grab the 6:05 PM #801 bus from Moreton (High Street, Town Hall) back to Stow (arriving in Stow/Police Station at 6:25 PM). If we just miss the 6:05 PM bus to Stow, the next one isn’t until 7:15 PM (each is a 10-minute ride).

Tonight, Back in Stow
By this point, we’ll be ready for a nice siesta at the hotel, and maybe some dinner. Tonight we’ll simply relax at home in Stow-on-the-Wold and pack for our morning departure for London town. We could dine at the Lodge Restaurant at our hotel, which features excellent food and a popular 22 pnd three-course dinner option OR for eating-on-the-cheap, we could head to the grassy triangle where Digbeth hits Sheet Street for take-out (a number of options) to eat at the triangle, or on the benches by the stocks on Market Street, or at our hotel.

NOTE: Complete Cotswolds bus timetables are at: http://ww3.gloucestershire.gov.uk/Bustimes/Cotswold.htm.

DAY SIX: THE COTSWOLDS & LONDON: WED JULY 1
Train to London Town
Sleep in, have breakfast at the hotel, checkout, and meet our taxi outside the hotel at 10:00 AM to head for the Moreton-in-Marsh train station for the 10:48 AM train to London (a 1 hour 41 minute ride), arriving at London’s Paddington Station at 12:29 PM. We purchased our train tickets in advance, from Chicago, AND COLLECTED THEM AT THE BATH SPA STATION A FEW DAYS AGO WHEN WE TOOK OUR FIRST ENGLISH TRAIN. Taxi to book: Tony Luker, cotswoldtaxis@aol.com; chris@stowlodge.com; mobile phone is 0771-0117471. Cost for the taxi will be about 10 pnds.

Arrival in London; Check-in Lime Tree Hotel
Arrive at Paddington Station in London at 12:29 PM. At Paddington, buy two Three-Day Travelcards plus two One-Day Travelcards for the Tube from the ticket window (about 23 pnds each), which will ensure smooth transport during our four days in London. We should pickup a free Tube system map, too, showing the various lines and their destinations. Then we’ll take the Tube to Victoria Station, very close to our hotel in the city center. At Paddington, after we secure our Tube cards, we should take the Circle Line (the yellow line, westbound, from platform 1), which will run direct to Victoria Station, our hotel stop.

Upon arrival at Victoria Station, we should exit the Tube (Big Ben will be to our right: wow!), and turn left as we face Big Ben, and then go left again at the first street (Buckingham Palace Road). We’ll then proceed about two blocks to Eccleston Street, and go right for two blocks, taking a left on Ebury. Our hotel, The Lime Tree Hotel, will be on our left-hand side: 135-137 Ebury Street, Belgravia, Tel: 020 7730 8191; http://www.limetreehotel.co.uk; info@limetreehotel.co.uk. We have reserved a superior queen double for four nights at a rate of 150 pnds per night (60 pnds TOTAL, with no deposit paid) including private bath/shower, breakfast, and WI-FI. This area, known as Belgravia, is safe, tidy and within a five-minute walk of the Tube, bus and train stations.

Today in London: Westminster Walk
After checking in and getting settled, we’ll have lunch at the Ebury Wine Bar, at the bar, with high-quality food (a step above pub grub). Located just a few doors beyond our hotel, on the same side of the street. Note that the back room features more expensive restaurant-style food.

Then we’ll take the self-guided Rick Steves’ Westminster Walk to get oriented (p. 55), starting at Westminster Bridge and Big Ben, passing the houses of Parliament, Whitehall, 10 Downing Street (the British White House), and ending at Trafalgar Square. We’ll visit the Parliament building (start with the House of Lords, with a much shorter line, and then you can likely ‘sneak’ right over to the House of Commons, skipping the long wait). At Trafalgar, walk a bit longer to Piccadilly Circus (colorful nightlife and theaters). Our theater for tonight’s performance of Mamma Mia (7:30 PM) is located between Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square: Prince of Wales Theatre (31 Coventry Street, Piccadilly Circus Tube Stop).

Then proceed just a bit further (see map p. 69) to Leicester Square. After checking out Leicester Square, we’ll head back to the hotel for a late afternoon siesta at the hotel.

Tonight: Dinner at Grumbles; Mamma Mia at The Prince of Wales Theatre
We’ll dine tonight just a few blocks from our hotel at Grumbles, a hip and cozy place with great sidewalk and ground floor seating (avoid downstairs, if you can). They have 8-16 pnd plates and early bird specials; located half a block north or Belgrave Road at 35 Churton Street. Grumbles opens at 6:00 PM. Our hotel will have already made a reservation for 6:00 PM for us under the name “John Novick,” since Mamma Mia starts at 7:30 PM (we’ll taxi from the restaurant to the Prince of Wales Theater, 31 Coventry Street, after dinner). We need to show our credit card and email confirmation to collect our tickets for the show (at the box office). Then we’ll walk or take the underground back to our hotel, after the show.

Mama Mia Details
Thank you for purchasing tickets on Ticketmaster. Tickets being held at the Box Office can only be retrieved by the card holder with the original credit card used for this purchase. Please also bring your booking confirmation number.

http://www.ticketmaster.co.uk/h/help.html

You purchased 2 tickets to:

Mamma Mia
Prince of Wales Theatre, London,
Wed 1 Jul 2009, 19:30

Order for: John Novick
Seat location: section STALLS, row B, seats 19-18
Total Charge: £127.90

You will need a photo ID, the electronic ticket confirmation, and the credit card to collect your tickets at the box office.

DAY SEVEN: LONDON: THU JULY 2
Tower of London; Shopping@St. Katharine Dock; Thames Cruise; Churchill Museum; Westminster Abbey
Take the Tube to the Tower Hill stop to visit the Tower of London at 9:00 AM (see the Crown Jewels first, then Beefeater tour, then White Tower, or risk getting caught in a horribly long line for no reason). At the Tower Hill Tube Stop, notice the remains of London’s original Roman wall. After the Tower of London, walk just east of the Tower Bridge to visit the chic shops of St. Katharine Dock, and enjoy lunch at the old Dickens Inn. Then catch a Thames River boat ride to Westminster Bridge to visit the Churchill Museum and Westminster Abbey before taking a late afternoon siesta at the hotel.

Tonight: Sticky Fingers Café; Live Music or Night Bus Tour
This evening at about 6:30 PM or so we’ll take Tube to the High Street Kensington stop and have dinner at Bill Wyman’s Sticky Fingers Café and Stones Store/Museum (1a Phillmore Gardens, Kensington; exit Tube station, turn to our left, and proceed to Phillmore Gardens). After dinner and shopping at Sticky Fingers Café, we could take the Tube to Soho for a live band at a pub OR after dinner we can take an evening bus tour of London with the London-By-Night tour company. Pickup after dinner in Picadilly Circus, Haymarket, Tour Bus Stop, outside number 11 at either 8:12 PM or 10:12 PM. About an hour tour (pay the driver, 13 pnds each).

DAY EIGHT: LONDON: FRI JULY 3
Buckingham Palace; Herrod’s Department Store; Beatles Store; Sherlock Holmes Museum
After breakfast at the hotel, take a hop-on-hop-off bus tour starting at Victoria Street at 9:00 AM, hopping off near the end in plenty of time to get a good place to observe the Changing of the Guard at Buckingham Palace at 11:30 AM (be at St. James Palace, located just up The Mall from Buckingham by 11:15 AM, in order to accompany the guard going off duty and the marching band on the short walk to Buckingham; this is the real pageantry). When we arrive at Buckingham with them, grab a spot on the high ground around the circular Victoria Monument (don’t crowd the gate with the rest of the tourists, since the elevated ground offers the best view). Then we can watch the new guards and the horse guards all converge for the changing of the guard (which really takes place behind the gate, and is anti-climactic without the rest of the show).

After Buckingham Palace, visit the nearby and world-famous Herrod’s Department (a million square feet of space with seven floors; great food court on the ground and lower ground floors, and a memorial to Princess Diana and Dodi Fayed at the Egyptian Escalator on the ground floor). Then visit the Beatles Store (221 Baker Street) and the Sherlock Holmes Museum, next door to the Beatles Store (walk, or take the Tube to Baker Street stop).

Tonight: Shakespeare at Globe Theater
At 7:30 PM tonight we’ll see As You Like It at Shakespeare’s Globe Theater (we already purchased our tickets online and received them by mail; we’re traveling with them), followed by dinner at The Black Friar Pub, “London’s best Art Nouveau pub.”

Dear Mr. John N Novick

Thank you for booking with Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre Online. Your booking details are as follows:

BOOKING REFERENCE: 1626515
Please quote in any enquiries relating to this booking.

Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre Customer Number: 648869 Name: Mr. John N Novick

Purchase Details: As You Like It
at Shakespeare's Globe
03 July 2009 at 19:30

Tickets: A35 - A36
Lower Gallery, Door 2 Bay J
2 tickets - Adult at £33.00

Total Cost: £68.00 (including £2.00 transaction fee)

We’ll take Tube to the London Bridge stop followed by a 10 minute walk (exit the London Bridge Tube and proceed past London Bridge—toward and past the cathedral—following the Thames to the Globe). OR take the Tube to Westminster, cross the bridge to the London Eye, and follow the pedestrian-only Jubilee Walkway along the river to the Globe. Then after the show, we can retrace our steps to the Tube station and take the Tube to the Blackfriars stop for dinner OR proceed past the Globe to the Tate and across the Millennium Bridge (we should see this bridge) to the pub OR take a minicab from outside the Globe…the pub address is 174 Queen Victoria Street. Then take a night-time walk and return to the hotel.

DAY NINE: LONDON: SAT JULY 4
Laundry; Tussaud’s Waxworks; Covent Garden; St. Paul’s Cathedral; Notting Hill
After breakfast at the hotel, we’ll drop off a few loads of laundry for our Italian leg by 8:45 AM at the “Launderette Centre,” located not too far from our hotel, a block west of Warwick Square at #31 Churton Street (see #22 on map p. 112); open 8:00 AM to 7:30 PM; 9 pnds per load for full service (we should have them do two loads for us). We can pick them up later this afternoon when we return to our hotel for a siesta.

Then we’ll visit Tussaud’s Waxworks at 9:30 AM (Baker Street Tube stop, on Marylebone Road) as soon as they open (we have already booked tickets in advance for the 9:30 AM entry time—the combo ticket including the London Eye ticket for 33 pnds, each—at www.madame-tussauds.com). We have to show our credit card and email confirmation to collect our tickets at Tussaud’s. Then tonight we’ll ride the Eye after our siesta, before dinner.

After the waxworks, we’ll take the Tube to the Covent Garden stop to enjoy shopping and people watching in Covent Garden a boutique-ish shopping/dining area. Then we’ll visit the nearby St. Paul’s Cathedral to see and tour the church before proceeding via Tube to the Notting Hill and Bayswater neighborhoods for lunch and more shopping/exploring.

We’ll have lunch at Café Diana, a healthy eatery with sandwiches, salads and Middle Eastern food once frequented by Princess Diana: 5 Wellington Terrace, on Bayswater Road, opposite the Kensington Palace Garden gate—where Di once lived.

Then we’ll return to Belgravia, collect our laundry, and return to the hotel for a siesta.

Tonight: Ride the London Eye; Tapas
Tonight before dinner we’ll ride one of London’s newest icons, the London Eye, very close to our hotel. The London Eye is the world’s highest observation wheel. 25 people ride in each air-conditioned carriage for a 30-minute journey around, providing stunning views of the London skyline. At 450 feet tall at the top, even nearby Big Ben looks small from the Eye. It costs about 15 pnds, each, and is open until 9:00 PM, but late afternoon/early evening is perfect for photos. We will have booked a specific time in advance of our trip with our Tussaud’s Waxworks tickets (see above). Upon arrival, we input our confirmation number into the ATM-like machine, collect our tickets, and then join the ticket holders’ line, which starts 10 minutes before our departure time.

After the Eye, we’ll enjoy dinner at Goya Spanish Restaurant & Tapas Bar, with 12-15 pnd meals (located at 2 Eccleston Place; see map p. 112).
After dinner, we could take one last look at London Town before we return to the hotel to pack and prepare for our morning departure to Italia!

DAY TEN: LONDON TO GENOA, ITALY TO MONTEROSSO AL MARE (CINQUE TERRE): SUN JULY 5
Morning: Flight to Genoa, Italy from London’s Gatwick Airport; Train to Monterosso al Mare
This morning we’ll rise at 5:00 AM, checkout of our hotel by 5:45 AM, and either walk or taxi to Victoria Station. There we’ll take the express train from nearby Victoria Station to London-Gatwick Airport (about 17 pnds each for Express Class, 4 per hour beginning at 5:00 AM; can buy tickets on the train with no extra charge, just a 30-minute ride: www.gatwickexpress.co.uk). We should take the 6:30 AM train, to arrive at the airport just after 7:00 AM for our 10:10 AM flight to Genoa. We can breakfast at the airport.

OUR FLIGHT TO ITALIA
Our flight is British Airways flight #BA2688 departing London-Gatwick Terminal North at 10:10 AM for Cristoforo Columbo airport in Genoa, Italy, arriving in Genoa at 1:10 PM (a 2 hour flight, with a 1 hour time difference, with Italy being 1 hour ahead of England).

Upon arrival at Genova-Colombo at 1:10 PM, we’ll collect our baggage and take a 20-minute bus ride from the airport to the train station (e4 each, pay on the bus), probably clearing customs in time for the 2:00 PM bus, arriving at the station by 2:30 PM (if we decide to take a taxi to the train station instead, will run about e15). Note we want Stazione Brignole, not Principe, for our particular train today.

Once at Brignole, in the new town, we should purchase two standard class tickets on the 3:20 PM train to Monterosso al Mare, arriving in Monterosso at 4:42 PM, a 1 hour 22 minute ride (train no. 11285). The train will cost about e20 total.

Arrival in Monterosso al Mare
We’ll arrive in Monterosso at 4:42 PM. Upon arrival, pickup a train schedule at the station for use on our trip. Then exit the station and go left.

Our hotel is located in the old town/historical center, just across from the beach at Piazza Garibaldi (see no. 2 on map, p. 909): Albergo Pasquale. To get there, we’ll exit the train station (located in new town) and go left (on the only road, Via Fegina). Follow Via Fegina under the pedestrian tunnel connecting the new and old towns.

Proceed through tunnel into old town. Path goes left after tunnel. Continue on to Piazza Garibaldi. Our hotel is Albergo Pasquale, just a few steps from the beach, boat dock, and tunnel entrance (air-conditioned; all rooms with a sea view; near train tracks, but noise is not a problem here). Address is Via Roma 37. We’ve reserved a small double with private bath/shower, air and breakfast at a rate of e155per night for four nights (TOTAL e620 cash). Info: www.pasini.com; pasquale@pasini.com; phone is 0187-817-550. Owned by Felicita & Marco.

After Getting Settled
Check-in hotel, and after getting settled, we’ll have dinner and take an evening stroll. When we’re ready for dinner, consider Miky (all pastas cooked in a thin pizza crust! Opens for dinner at 7 PM; located 100 yards north of the train station in new town, Via Fegina 4) OR Ristorante Belvedere (in old town on the harbor).

After dinner, for nightlife with a sea view, we could walk to Il Caselo, in a building from 1870 that served as the town’s first train station, overlooking the beach on the road toward Vernazza.

Another option would be Fast Bar, on Via Roma in the old town, featuring plenty of younger travels and noisy drinkers until 2:00 AM.

Another place to keep in mind tonight or any night in town is Enoteca Eliseo, the finest wine bar in Monterosso: select a bottle from their top shelf, and for e6 extra you can enjoy it from their cozy tables. They also serve light snacks. Wine sold by the glass (bicchiere) are posted daily; located at Piazza Matteotti 3, a few blocks inland and behind the church (see map p. 909).

DAY ELEVEN: MONTEROSSO AL MARE MON JULY 6
After sleeping in and a late breakfast at the hotel, we’ll take the Steves self-guided walk through Monterosso, starting at the dock in old town, not far from our hotel. From the dock, climb a few rough steps to the top of the breakwater, to begin with an orientation view. From the breakwater (sit as long as we like; bring a beverage?), walk to the old town square (just past the train tracks and beyond the beach) called Piazza Garibaldi. After checking out the Garibaldi statue and the square’s shops/sites, just under the bell tower (with our back to the sea, the bell tower will be on our left), is a set of covered arcades where old locals hang out. Then check out the black and white St. John the Baptist Church, made of Carrara marble. Leaving St. John’s, go left immediately to another church, Oratory of the Dead. Then return to the beach and find the brick steps leading up the hill-capping convent (starting between the train tracks and the pedestrian tunnel). Follow the orange brick road skyward to a convent church, a cemetery, and a ruined castle (along with a statue of St. Francis of Assisi and a wolf enjoying the view, like you). From here, backtrack 20 yards and continue upward again, to the gate and the Cappuchin church. After visiting the church, hike uphill to the cemetery that fills the remains of the ruined castle, at the summit. From here, any trail will lead us back into town.

If it’s a nice day, we can rent two chairs and an umbrella for e15 and watch the sunset on the beach with a drink (the beach, the best in Cinque Terra, is just across from the train station). OR we can do this another night.

We can also spend time today reading/sunning on the beach (Steves says the best beach is in the new town, across from the train station).

For lunch today, we can either eat on the beach (pizza from Il Frantoio just off Via Roma at Via Gioberti 1 OR an e5 box lunch for the beach prepared by BarDavi, located under the arch on the main drag at Via Roma 34).

Tonight, after a siesta, we’ll walk to Il Casello (see p. 913 Steves), on the beach, for drinks and a light dinner, or visit the town’s best wine bar (see above).

DAY TWELVE: CORNIGLIA & VERNAZZA TUE JULY 7
After breakfast this morning, we’ll take the train to Corniglia, and enjoy the 90-minute scenic hike between Corniglia and Vernazza. At the Monterosso train station, we’ll purchase a three-day Cinque Terra Card (combines hiking passes on all trails, along with a map and train schedule; about e10 each for three days). No longer includes trains/buses, but they’re cheap, about e1 per ride. We should wear comfortable hiking-style shoes today.

From the Corniglia train station, we’ll zig-zag up through the town via 400 stairs to explore the sleepy main square (see Steves p. 889) before catching the trail to Vernazza (see Steves p. 875). The hike, about 90 minutes in length, will pass some beautiful scenery, a nude beach well below the path, and a bar, before entering Vernazza.

Once in Vernazza, we’ll take Steves’ self-guided tour of the town on p. 898, and have lunch harborside at Ristorante Pizzeria Vulnetia at Piazza Marconi 29.

After exploring Vernazza, we’ll catch the boat from the harbor in Vernazza back to Monterosso al Mare, for an afternoon siesta before the passiagiata and a late dinner. Then we’ll sit by the water until we’re ready to go to sleep.

NOTE: Tonight we should email Roberta, our tour guide in Genova at 3:30 PM this Giovedi (Thursday), meeting at our hotel, Palazzo Cicala (Piazza San Lorenzo 16), to confirm. Roberta’s email address is diodebe@inwind.it.

DAY THIRTEEN: RIOMAGGIORE & MANAROLA WED JULY 8
After sleeping in and breakfast at the hotel, we’ll spend some time at the beach in Monterosso al Mare today, relaxing and reading.

Then, after a siesta at the hotel, we’ll catch the 6:07 PM train (get there a few minutes early, these trains can be either early or late) to Riomaggiore, arriving at 6:25 PM (an 18 minute ride). From the Riomaggiore train station, check out the colorful murals (and then pass through the long tunnel that connects the station to the town); then ride the elevator to the top of the town (included with our Cinque Terra Card); see the dramatic sea and town views and the church; then walk Via Columbo, the town’s main drag (see p. 878 in Steves).

Then, sometime around 7:30 PM, we’ll have dinner in Riomaggiore at either a sitdown pizza place (Gigi’s Veciu Muin at Via Columbo 83, open to 11:00 PM, or a nicer restaurant, Bar & Vini A Pie de Ma, at the trailhead on the Manarola end of town, with a dramatically situated terrace with stunning views, open until 8:00 PM).

When done visiting Riomaggiore, we’ll return to the train station to pickup the Via Del Amore hiking trail to the next town, Manarola (just a 20-minute hike; see p. 875 in Steves for the hiking trail from the train station). We’ll take the stroll this time at around sunset, which takes place just before 9:00 PM tonight; we want to be on the trail/walk no later than about 8:30 PM.

Then we’ll explore Manarola: a 30-minute circular walk will show us the town and the surrounding vineyards, ending at a fantastic viewpoint which we missed the last time we were here (see p. 885 in Steves).

When finished exploring Manarola for a few minutes, we’ll take the train back to Monterosso al Mare, departing the station at Manarola at 9:33 PM: it is imperative that we take this train, or we’ll have to wait until 11:22 PM for the next one!

Upon our return to the hotel in Monterosso, we’ll pack for our morning departure for Genova.

DAY FOURTEEN: CINQUE TERRE TO GENOVA THU JULY 9
Checkout Hotel; Train to Genova
After breakfast at the hotel and some free time to read, edit pictures, write, or do some shopping, we’ll checkout and proceed with our bags to the train station in Monterosso for the 11:55 AM train to Genova, arriving at Stazione Brignole at 1:16 PM (a 1 hr 21 minute ride), e8 each for 2nd Class. Stazione Brignoli is just 10 minutes from our hotel: we’ll take a taxi after leaving the station, “Palazzo Cicala, per favore.”

Check In Hotel, Lunch
We’ve booked a suite with breakfast and Wi-Fi (no doubles remained) for e194 for one night at Palazzo Cicala: Piazza San Lorenzo 16; http://www.palazzocicala.it; info@palazzocicala.it; 39-010-251-8824. Our confirmation number is 1240874353. Our secret number is 11448. We’ve requested a bright but quiet suite.

Locanda di Palazzo Cicala is in the very heart of the historic city centre of Genoa, opposite the Duomo, and gives onto the sixteenth-century Piazza San Lorenzo, just a short walk from Palazzo Ducale, the University of Genoa, the Carlo Felice theatre and the Old Harbor, where guests can visit the Aquarium or depart on boat tours of the Riviera di Levante to Camogli or Portofino.

The hotel is strategically situated for tourists and business visitors to Genoa alike. All the tourist attractions, churches and museums of historic or artistic interest in the old town can be reached in less than five minutes walking through a network of pedestrian streets and piazzas that, along with the area bordering the old town, make up Genoa's main shopping district. The location is also ideal for the evening, because all the most important theatres and cinemas and popular nightspots are concentrated in the old town.

Once we check in and get settled—probably around 1:30 PM—we’ll have lunch at a bar near the hotel at Piazza San Lorenzo. Then we’ll return to the hotel for our 3:30 PM guided walking tour of the town.

Guided Walking Tour of Genova
Then we’ll meet our private tour guide, Roberta, in our hotel lobby at 3:30 PM. She will take us on a three-hour walking tour of the old city, from 3:30 to 6:30 PM (the cost will be e80 total).
Ciao John, It's all ok! We can meet in front of your hotel. My mobile is (0039)3495304778.
A presto Roberta
Buon giorno John!

The cost for a guided tour in Genoa is 80 euro for 3 hrs. July is quite hot and shops and churches open only at 3/4 p.m. You can come around 3.30 p.m, we can do the tour and then you can walk in town by yourself (shops close at 7.30) and maybe have dinner and go back in the evening. I only suggest you to come and go from Brignole station not Principe. It's closer to the center and better for who comes fron Monterosso

Ciao Roberta

Then we’ll enjoy a siesta at the hotel before dinner and packing for our morning departure for home.

For dinner tonight, we will visit Pintori, located on a small but pedestrian-friendly and safe street right near the duomo and our hotel: Via San Bernardo 68 Red. Family run and rustic, with outstanding food and a fine wine list. Our hotel has already made a 7:30 PM reservation for us for tonight under the name “John Novick.”

Some Background on Genova
With a long and important history stretching back centuries, the port city of Genoa is Italy’s sixth-biggest and has Europe’s largest old town. Via Garibaldi (formerly Strada Nuova) is known for its many Baroque palaces, and the city is also famous for its carruggi (narrow alleyways). Piazza de Ferrari, the main square, is home to the Palace of the Doges and the Teatro Carlo Felice; the birthplace of Christopher Columbus is nearby. We could also stop at the panoramic terrace of Castelletto. From here we'll see the historical center of Genoa, the port and the “Lanterna” or lighthouse, which is considered the symbol of the town.

The home of Christopher Columbus, the city of Genoa has long had a proud maritime tradition that dates back to ancient times. The Etruscans founded the city in the 6th century BC, and it was later a major trading port with the Greeks. During the Punic Wars the Carthaginians destroyed the city in 209 BC. Rebuilt by the Romans, it remained a vital trading center for several centuries.

After the fall of the Roman Empire in the West the city was controlled by several different powers, first the Ostrogoth and then by the Lombards. During this time the town fell into great decline and was little more than a backwater port.

However, as with other Italian maritime centers the city rebounded and built a massive trade fleet, making the city one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean. The city was sacked by Moorish pirates in the 10th century, but once again rebounded. From this port an empire was built that controlled the seas and lands around the vital port city.

During the Crusades that city-state allied with the Byzantines, and became one of the large Maritime Republics. Wars with Venice, another Maritime Republic, and the introduction of the Black Death to Europe began a decline for the trading empire. By the 16th century the zenith had passed, and the Mediterranean was but a lake compared to the worldwide trade routes established by Spain and Portugal with the opening of the New World.

The city was nearly destroyed by the French in 1684, and conquered by Austria in 1746, only to lose the last of its territory by 19th century. The city was annexed by France in 1805 and then transferred to the House of Savoy following Napoleon’s downfall. While the city remained the center of an anti-Savoy movement, it recovered economically during this time. In 1861 along with the other Savoy lands the city became part of a unified Italy.

Genoa Warning
Even locals are wary of back streets in the Old City, especially on midafternoons, when shops are closed and streets tend to be deserted. Purse snatching, jewelry theft, and armed robberies are all too common. Also, count your change here: The shenanigans by shopkeepers and waiters are second in infamy only to Rome's.

FLIGHT: GENOA TO MUNICH TO CHICAGO: FRI JULY 10
This morning, the day of our departure, we’ll checkout and take a taxi at 9:30 AM from our hotel to Genoa’s Cristoforo Columbo Airport for our 12:05 PM flight toward home (will cost about e15 and take about 15 minutes).

Depart from Genoa Cristoforo Columbo Airport for Chicago O’Hare via United Airlines Flight 9282 (operated by Dolomiti Airlines) at 12:05 PM for Munich on Friday, 7/10 (1hr 35 min); arrive at Munich-Franz Joseph Airport Terminal Two at 1:40 PM; depart Munich Terminal Two via United Airlines Flight 8855 (operated by Deutsche-Lufthansa) at 3:40 PM, arriving at Chicago O’Hare Terminal 5 at 6:15 PM Friday, 7/10 (9 hrs 35 min)