Itinerary: 11 Summer Nights in Scotland & England

York, England; then Edinburgh, Stirling, Musselburgh, Inverness, Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, Isle of Skye and Pitlochry in Scotland; end in London, England

Wednesday 20 June – Monday 2 July 2012

OVERVIEW 

• Fly Chicago to London, England (0 stop), 20-6 (Wed), departing O’Hare at 6:00 PM on Virgin Atlantic Airways Flight VS40, arriving at London-Heathrow at 8:00 AM on Thu, an  8 hr 0 min flight 
• Train London-Heathrow to York, England, Take Tube from Terminal 3 (Piccadilly Line toward Cockfosters or Arnos Grove) to King’s Cross/St. Pancras Station (about 1 hour, 0 changes); at King’s Cross, take 10:30 or 11:00 AM train to York (about 2 hours on East Coast line, 0 changes); arrive in York between 12:30 and 1:00 PM, 21-6 (Thu) 
• 2 nights York, England, 21-6 (Thu) & 22-6 (Fri) 
• Train York to Edinburgh, Scotland  (2 hr 35 min, 0 changes), departing York at 11:32 AM, arriving in Edinburgh at 2:07 PM on 23-6 (Sat) 
• 3 nights Edinburgh with Day Trip to Stirling Castle Mon & Breakfast in Musselburgh Tue, 23-6 (Sat), 24-6 (Sun) & 25-6 (Mon) 
• Train Edinburgh to Inverness (3 hr 29 min), departing Edinburgh at 1:35 PM, arriving in Inverness at 5:04 PM on 26-6 (Tue) 
• 3 nights Inverness with Guided Day Trips on Wed to Loch Ness & Thu to Isle of Skye , 26-6 (Tue), 27-6 (Wed) & 28-6 (Thu) 
• Train Inverness to Pitlochry (1 hr 36 min, 0 changes), departing Inverness at 10:45 AM, arriving in Pitlochry at 12:21 PM on 29-6 (Fri) 
• 1 night Pitlochry, 29-6 (Fri) 
• Train Pitlochry, Scotland to London, England, (6 hrs 34 min, 0 changes), departing Pitlochry at 8:16 AM, arriving at London-King’s Cross Station at 2:55 PM, 30-6 (Sat) 
• 2 Nights London, 30-6 (Sat) & 1-7 (Sun) 
• Fly London, England to Chicago O’Hare (0 stop), 2-7 (Mon), departing London-Heathrow at 11:00 AM on Virgin Atlantic Airways Flight VS39, arriving in Chicago on Monday 2-7 at 1:55 PM, an 8 hr 55 min flight

DAY ONE (THU 21): ARRIVE AT LONDON-HEATHROW; TRAIN TO YORK

Arrive in London, England; Transfer to York

We’ll arrive at Heathrow Airport at 8:00 AM on Thursday and after clearing customs take the Tube from Terminal 3 (Piccadilly Line toward Cockfosters or Arnos Grove) to King’s Cross/St. Pancras Station (about 1 hour, 0 changes)

We have already purchased Oyster Cards for the Tube, buses & trams in London, with £20 pre-loaded on each card (mailed to us in Chicago pre-trip). If we need more money on the cards, we can add it at any station during our two-night stay in town next week.

At King’s Cross, we’ll take the 10:30 or 11:00 AM East Coast Line train to York (about 2 hours on East Coast line, 0 changes), arriving in York between 12:30 and 1:00 PM.

We have already purchased a 3-day Adult BritRail Flexipass for 2 people (and given the number and length of rides on this trip, we’ll splurge for 1st Class) at http://www.visitbritainshop.com/usa/travel-transport/product/britrail-gb-flexi-pass.html. Because we ordered before April 12th, we received an additional day free (a total of 4 days for the price of 3). The cost in US dollars was $763, including shipping .The ride from London to York is Day 1; York to Edinburgh will be Day 2; Edinburgh to Inverness Day 3; we’ll pay cash for the short ride from Inverness to Pitlochry; and Day 4 will be the long journey from Pitlochry back to London.

In Britain, seat reservations are free to make at any station and are a good idea for weekends.

Arrival in York; Check-in Abbey Guest House

Upon arrival at York station, we’ll head to the nearby Abbey Guest House, where we’ve reserved a four-poster room with a river view for 2 nights.

To get to Abbey Guest House from York station: Come out of the main entrance to York Railway Station and walk left towards the city centre. Cross Leeman Road and carry on walking past the bus stop and under the city wall. Bear left and walk across Lendal Bridge. Just as you get opposite Pizza Express there is a small set of stone steps which leads down to your left – walk down the steps. At the bottom of the steps walk straight ahead along the riverside on Dame Judi Dench walk, past the Museum Gardens on your right. Continue on to the end of the row of houses on the river side – Abbey Guest House is the last house in the row. If you go under the railway bridge then you have gone too far.

Abbey Guest House, 13/14 Earlsborough Terrace Marygate; phone is 01904 627782; e-mail is

info@abbeyghyork.co.uk; website is http://www.abbeyghyork.co.uk/index.html. We’ve reserved a four-poster room in the front of the house with en suite bath/shower, breakfast, Wi-Fi and view of the River Ouse for 2 nights (21 & 22 June) at a cost of £83 per night: TOTAL COST OF £166.

NOTE: When we check-in, we should ask the B&B to make a 9 PM dinner reservation at the Bay Horse for us for tomorrow evening.

                                                              

Check-In; Lunch, Shopping, Shambles; York Minster; Siesta

After getting settled in our hotel at about 1:30 PM, we’ll checkout the city center, grab lunch, and do some strolling and shopping, being certain to visit the atmospheric old butcher’s quarter with medieval buildings, a neighborhood called The Shambles. For lunch, RS recommends St. Williams’ Restaurant near Minster (see map p. 472), while TA rates Mason’s Bar & Bistro (13 Fossgate) highly for lunch.

Then we’ll visit York Minster (cost is £9.00 each, last entry is 5:00 PM), a wonderful Gothic church and the pride of York—one of England’s most famous churches. After the Minster (probably around 5:00 PM), we’ll take a late afternoon siesta back at the B&B.

Dinner, River Ouse Cruise

At about 7:15 PM, we’ll have dinner: one recommended casual spot is Ask Italian Restaurant, located in the Grand Assembly Rooms, Blake Street (askcentral.co.uk‎; open until 10:00 PM). Café Concerto is recommended by RS, too (also open until 10:00 PM, facing the Minster, 21 High Petergate; reservation might be needed).

After dinner, at about 8:45 PM, we’ll head to King's Staith Landing  (see map p.453 RS) for the 70-minute narrated floodlit evening cruise, departing at 9:15 PM. Cost will be about £9.50 each (http://www.yorkboat.co.uk).

DAY TWO (FRI 22): YORK

Castle Museum; Double-Decker City Bus Tour

We’ll rise about 7:45 AM this morning, enjoy breakfast, and then proceed to the York Castle Museum for its opening at 9:30 AM (to avoid long lines; cost is £8.50 each).

York Castle Museum is one of Britain's leading museums of everyday life. It shows how people used to live by displaying thousands of household objects and by recreating rooms, shops, streets - and even prison cells. It is best known for its recreated Victorian street, Kirkgate, which combines real shop fittings and stock with modern sound and light effects, to evoke an atmosphere of Victorian Britain.

After the museum (done by about 10:45 AM), we’ll walk toward Exhibition Square, checking out shops as we go, arriving in time for the 12:00 PM double-decker bus tour by City Sightseeing (we want Route B, the longer one hour tour, with a live guide; will run about $20.00 US, each; we most likely pay the driver cash).

Lunch; Free-Time Options

After the bus tour concludes around 1:00 PM, we’ll grab lunch and enjoy some free time. Options include shopping, taking a siesta at the hotel, visiting the Yorkshire Museum (a top-notch archeological museum with authentic Viking artifacts close to our lodging (admission is £7.50; open until 5:00 PM; http://www.yorkshiremuseum.org.uk/Page/Index.aspx), and strolling along the River Ouse (there is a mile-long tree-lined lane created in the 1730s). For a one-hour walk, cross the Millennium Bridge from the riverwalk and pass through Rowntree Park, eventually come back into town.

Siesta; Evening Walking Tour: Dinner at The Bay Horse

After a siesta, we’ll proceed to Exhibition Square (across from the TI, just north of our hotel; see map p. 453) for the 6:45 PM free two-hour walking tour with a trained volunteer guide (note that they sometimes run long, and while you can leave any time, let them know first so they don’t think they’ve lost you).

After the tour (at about 8:45 PM), we’ll visit The Bay Horse, a very highly rated restaurant on Trip Advisor (located next to the museum gardens and river), for our 9:00 PM reservations. We’ll book our reservation online before the trip at http://www.bayhorsemarygate.co.uk.

Then we’ll call it a night, and prepare for our morning departure by train for Edinburgh, Scotland.

DAY THREE (SAT 23): TRAIN YORK TO EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Checkout of Abbey; Train to Edinburgh

We’ll checkout of the hotel after breakfast (by 9:15 AM) and proceed to the train station for the 10:00 AM train to Edinburgh, Scotland (2 hr 35 min, 0 changes), arriving in Edinburgh (Waverley Station) at 12:35 PM. This is Day 2 on our 4-Day Britrail Pass.

Arrive in Edinburgh; Walk to Jury’s Inn (5 min from station)

We’ll arrive at Waverley Station at about 12:30 PM. To get to our hotel (Jurys’ Inn-Edinburgh) from Waverley, we’ll walk 1/8 of a mile, per these directions:

It's a 5 minute walk from the station to the hotel. Exit via Market Street, cross the road onto Jeffrey Street and the hotel is 100 yards up on the right-hand side.

Booking Confirmation Details

Thank you for booking Jurys Inn Edinburgh, we hope you will have a pleasant stay. Your confirmation number is 3536886

Details of your Reservation are as follows:

Arrival Date: 23 June 2012

Departure Date: 26 June 2012

Number of Rooms: 1

Adults Per room: 2

Rate Description: Room Only Rate - Reserve Online - Book with total flexibility!

Room Description: Spacious Double Room - Suitable for 2 adults

Superior upgrade includes: Internet access (Wifi in public areas), complimentary mineral water & biscuits, iron and ironing board, newspaper, 10 lunch/dinner discount, early check-in

Total Cost: 495.00GBP

Rate Breakdown (per room) 165.00GBP from 23 June 2012

Tax Information: Tax Included VAT@20 PCT

Cancellation policy: CANCEL BY 12AM 23-JUN-12

Check-in Time: 14:00

Check-out Time: 12:00

Hotel Name: Jurys Inn Edinburgh

Hotel Address: Jurys Inn Edinburgh Hotel, 43 Jeffrey Street Edinburgh

EH1 1DH Scotland

Hotel Telephone: +44 131 200 3300  Hotel Fax: +44 131 200 0400 

Cancellations can be made up until 2pm on the day of arrival. If you fail to cancel your booking before this deadline your credit card will be charged for the first night of your stay.

NOTE: We did not purchase the generic breakfast with our room, and will, instead, have breakfast at the Costa Coffee bar in the hotel or a local bakery or market.

Get Settled; Royal Mile; Edinburgh Castle; Siesta

After checking-in and getting settled (by about 1:30 PM), we’ll stop for a bite to eat while walking the Royal Mile (shops, etc.) to Edinburgh Castle for the tour (entry is £14 each; open until 6:00 PM, but last entry at 5:15 PM). The guided tour of the castle (free with admission) runs about 20 minutes.

Then we’ll walk back down the Royal Mile, stopping anywhere we like, ultimately ending up back at the hotel, where we’ll enjoy a siesta for a few hours.

Dinner at World’s End Pub; Folk Music Afterward at Tass Pub – Both on Royal Mile

After our siesta, we’ll head out for dinner at 7:00 PM, at World’s End Pub, 4 High Street on the Royal Mile (see map p. 30). After dinner, we’ll cross the street to Tass Pub (#1 High Street), where live traditional music begins nightly after 9:00 PM, with no cover.

DAY FOUR (SUN 24): EDINBURGH

Holyrood House Castle; Double-Decker Bus Tour; Jenners’ Department Store; National Museum

After breakfast we’ll visit the nearby Palace of Holyrood House, right near our hotel, when it opens at 9:30 AM. Cost is £10.75 each with audio guide.

Founded as a monastery in 1128, the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh is The Queen's official residence in Scotland. Situated at the end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closely associated with Scotland's turbulent past, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived here between 1561 and 1567. Successive kings and queens have made the Palace of Holyroodhouse the premier royal residence in Scotland.

Today, the Palace is the setting for State ceremonies and official entertaining. During The Queen's Holyrood week, which usually runs from the end of June to the beginning of July, Her Majesty carries out a wide range of official engagements in Scotland.

Then we’ll stroll to Waverley Bridge (the old town end of the bridge; see map p. 19 for directions), stopping in any shops we like along the way, to take the Mac Tours Edinburgh Tour via ‘vintage’ double-decker bus (green buses, £12 each for 24 hour ticket). We’ll ride through the complete one-hour tour, knowing we can use our tickets all day long for transport if desired.

Stops include New Town, St. Andrew Square, Caledonian Hotel, Usher Hall/Lyceum Theatre, Old Town, Lawnmarket (for Castle), Greyfriars Bobby, McEwan Hall, National Museum of Scotland, North Bridge, Calton Hill, Palace of Holyroodhouse, Our Dynamic Earth, Scottish Parliament, Canongate.

After the tour, we’ll grab lunch (consider Piemaker, 100 yards off the Royal Mile at South Bridge, featuring meat pies and delicious homemade pastries; see p. 61 RS) before doing some shopping (including House of Fraser Jenners department store at 48 Princess Street, open until 6:00 PM) and visiting the National Museum of Scotland. The museum is located two long blocks south of the Royal Mile from St. Giles Cathedral; www.nms.ac.uk; no entry fee; closes at 5:00 PM). We’ll visit the museum from about 3:30 PM until closing. Then we’ll take a siesta back at the B&B.

Dinner in the Georgian New Town at Henderson’s Bistro; Stroll New Town

At about 7:00 PM, we’ll head-out for dinner, dining tonight in Edinburgh’s Georgian New Town (dating from a 1776 plan; see p. 43 in RS) at a bistro featuring fresh local ingredients: Henderson’s Bistro, located at 25c Thistle Street (open until 8:30 PM on Sundays). Note that Henderson’s Restaurant, also on site, is closed on Sundays, but the Bistro is open. Dinner menu features soups, wraps, hummus, salads, bruschetta, risotto, crepes & more. We have already reserved a table for 7:30 PM online at http://www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk/bistro.php. Recommended by RS and TA. Then we’ll checkout the New Town before calling it a night.

DAY FIVE (MON 25): SLEEP IN; DAY TRIP TO STIRLING; DORIC SCOTTISH RESTAURANT

We’ll enjoy a relaxed start this morning and sleep in before taking the 11:32 AM train from Waverley Station to Stirling (53 min, 0 changes; £15.40 each, return trip), arriving in Stirling at 12:25 PM. Then we’ll take a taxi from the rank outside the station to Stirling Castle (open 9:30 AM-6:00 PM; £13 each, including guided tour). Taxi will run about £5. We should arrive in time for the 1:00 PM tour (45 minutes), departing from the well outside the Fort Major’s House. We’ll spend about 90 minutes exploring the castle and taking photos of the amazing views before taking a taxi back to the city center for lunch and some shopping.

We’ll return to Edinburgh by the 5:06 PM or 5:36 PM train (1 hour ride back to Edinburgh Waverley), then take a siesta.

At about 7:30 PM we’ll check-out the Royal Mile at night for the last time, and grab a bite to eat at The Doric, a highly-rated (Trip Advisor) Scottish restaurant located on the Royal Mile at 15/16 Market Street (a gastro-pub, with a restaurant on the first floor and a wine bar above). Menus available at http://www.edinburghdj.co.uk/the-doric/a_la_carte_bar_menu.pdf. We have an 8:00 PM reservation in the restaurant (not the wine bar), made in advance of our trip.

Then we’ll return home to pack and get organized for our departure tomorrow morning for Inverness in the Scottish Highlands.

DAY SIX (TUE 26): BREAKFAST IN MUSSELBURGH; DEPART EDINBURGH (TRAIN TO INVERNESS)

Checkout of Hotel; Late Breakfast & Shopping in Nearby Coastal Village of Musselburgh; Train to Inverness

We’ll checkout this morning by 9:30 AM and proceed with our bags to Waverley Station. At Waverley, we’ll leave our big bags with the left luggage office (located at platform 19; £7 per bag) and purchase return tickets for the 10:13 AM train to the nearby coastal village of Musselburgh (a 6 minute commuter train ride; apprx £8.80 total return trip, for two), arriving at 10:19 AM. We’ll enjoy a few hours exploring the town center (a scenic beach, shopping district, historic sites, etc), have a leisurely breakfast, and then return to Edinburgh via the 12:52 PM train OR taxi (about £12).

MUSSELBURGH

Musselburgh is located on the south shore of the Firth of Forth in Scotland at the mouth of the River Esk, approximately 403 miles north of London and 6 miles east of Edinburgh.

The town has a population of around 22,000. Administratively it is within the unitary council region of East Lothian which covers an area of approximately 679 sq kms and which has a population of around 90,000.

The largest town in East Lothian on the eastern outskirts of Edinburgh, it is a good base from which to explore the beautiful coastline which stretches around to Dunbar. Visitor attractions here include one of the busiest racecourses in Scotland, for both National Hunt and Flat meetings. There are some notable historic sites, including a 13th century stone bridge across the Esk which was used by Edward II in his retreat from the Battle of Bannockburn in 1314, and The Tolbooth which was built around 1590. At low tide the sea retreats nearly a mile to expose a sandy beach with scattered shingle.

The town's history dates from the time of the Roman invasion of Scotland in 80AD. The Romans built a fort here and the bridge which they constructed across the River Esk lasted for many centuries before it was rebuilt, on the original Roman foundations, in the 13th century. It was created a burgh of barony around 1315, then became a burgh of regality in 1562, and in 1632 it was prevented from being made a royal burgh by Edinburgh burgesses who wanted to maintain control over the area's trade. During the Middle Ages the town experienced great turbulence, in the conflicts between Scotland and England, and was almost completely destroyed by English forces in 1544 and again in 1547.

Historically the town's economy was based upon its mussel industry and fishing but, today the majority of the workforce are employed in the retail, health, public administration, financial services, real estate, and other service sectors including tourism. Many residents also commute to work in Edinburgh.

The name Musselburgh, or 'mussel town', derives from its history connected to development of mussel beds at the mouth of the River Esk.

The town's motto is 'Honesty' which dates back to 1332.  The Coat of Arms for Musselburgh comprises three mussels, referring to the origins of the burgh, and three anchors which refer to the community's fishing traditions.    

Collect Bags; Train to Inverness in the Highlands

Upon our return to Edinburgh at about 1:00 PM, we’ll collect our bags from left luggage and board the 1:35 PM train to Inverness, arriving at 5:04 PM (3 hours, 29 minutes, 0 stops). This is Day 3 of our 4-Day Britrail Pass.

Arrive in Inverness; Transfer to Bluebell House via Walk (10 min) or Taxi; Check-In Early

We’ll arrive at Inverness Station at 5:00 PM. To get to our B&B (Bluebell House) from the station, we’ll walk about 10 minutes or taxi.

At the Bluebell House (owned and managed by Margaret & Neil Hart) we’ve reserved a king four-poster room with en suite bath, breakfast and free Wi-Fi for 3 nights at a total cost of £270. It’s located in a quiet residential neighborhood just 10 minutes’ walk to the center of town. Bluebell House, 31 Kenneth Street; Phone is 44 (0)1463238201. Email is info@bluebell-house.com; http://www.bluebell-house.com/index.htm.  We will arrange for a late check-in at 8:30 PM.

Get Settled in Inverness; Scottish Folk Show

After getting settled at the Bluebell, we’ll stroll the city center (see RS page p. 156 for map) before grabbing a bite and taking in the 8:30 PM folk show called The Scottish Showtime Experience (http://www.nessie.org.uk; about £12.50 each; two hours); located next to the bus station at Spectrum Centre Theatre on Marget Street. We’ll buy tickets at the door at about 8:00 PM. After the show, we’ll get a good night’s sleep.

DAY SEVEN (WED 27): INVERNESS; GUIDED EXCURSION TO LOCH NESS & URQUHART CASTLE

Sleep In; Explore Inverness; Half-Day Trip to Loch Ness & Urquhart Castle

We’ll sleep in today (but I think the latest we can come to breakfast is 8:30 AM? Have to check upon arrival). Then we’ll spend a few hours checking out the town (not really tourist destination itself). RS says, “Its charm is its normalcy…a taste of the urban Highlands,” and that it serves as a great base for day trips into the countryside (thus, serving our purpose).

Then, by 2:00 PM we’ll check-in for the 2:15 PM Scottish Tours day trip called Loch Ness Temptation, including a coach tour along the banks of Loch Ness, a 30-minute cruise on Loch Ness, and a visit to nearby Urquhart Castle (a 3 hour excursion, returning to town at 5:00 PM; £23 each; we booked in advance of our trip at http://www.scottishtours.co.uk/tourpage.asp?tourtype=0&id=320&resid=&departfrom=3). We have our confirmation email among our papers to show at the start of the tour. The tour departs from Platform 7 at Inverness Bus Station (see map p. 156).

Loch Ness is known World-wide as the home of “Nessie”, the Loch Ness Monster. But there is so much more to Loch Ness than just monster tales! If time is precious then this is the best way to experience the Loch. On this well-planned tour you will discover sleepy villages, wonderful loch-side vistas and one of Scotland’s most famous castles.

From the centre of Inverness you will travel by luxury mini-coach along the banks of the Caledonian Canal to the Bona Narrows. It was here that St Columba is said to have come face to face with “Nessie” in 565AD!

Soon the canal broadens to become Loch Ness and we meander our way enjoying wonderful views at every turn. At the Clansman Visitor Centre a cruiser awaits to take us for a 30 minute cruise on Loch Ness. Here we will sail the deepest waters of the loch which is where Nessie has been seen the most – was that a wave or a fin?

Urquhart Castle is strategically located on a rocky promontory sticking out into the deepest part of Loch Ness. Whoever held this castle controlled the Great Glen and as such it changed hands on numerous occasions. The MacDonalds and the Grants held Urquhart as did the English for a period. It was deliberately blown up in 1691 and today the atmospheric ruins are ours to discover. There are great views over Urquhart Bay to savour and you can learn more about the castle at the award-winning audio-visual presentation.

All too soon it’s time to board your coach from the return journey to Inverness.

Upon our return to town, we’ll enjoy a siesta back at the B&B.

Later this evening, we’ll take a night-time stroll and have dinner. See ps. 161-63 in RS guide for dinner ideas in town. We could simply chill tonight, or if game, could take the cheesy “Crime & Punishment Walking Tour” by Happy Tours, meeting on the steps of the TI at either 7:00 PM or 8:30 PM (£10 each; http://happy-tours.biz).

DAY EIGHT (THU 28): GUIDED DAY TRIP TO ISLE OF SKYE

After breakfast we’ll head back to the bus station (Platform 7, again) by 9:15 AM for the 9:30 AM day trip to the scenic Isle of Skye offered by Scottish Tours, including the Black Isle, Achnasheen, Strome Ferry, Kyle of Lochalsh, Isle of Skye, Cuillin Hills, Beach-combing, Eilean Donan Castle, The Five Sisters, and Invermoriston (a 9 hr 45 min excursion, returning to town at 7:15 PM; £44 each; we booked in advance of our trip at http://www.scottishtours.co.uk/tourpage.asp?tourtype=0&id=93&resid=&departfrom=3). We should bring the confirmation email from our papers to show when we check-in for the tour.

The Isle of Skye is famed the world over for its dramatic mountain scenery and picturesque seascapes. On this wonderful tour we’ll experience the very best of the Magical Isle.

We start our day together by driving along the banks of Loch Ness - keep a careful watch, just in case you know who makes an appearance! We'll stop in the little village of Invermoriston to see the delightful ruined bridge which was designed by Thomas Telford, who constructed the Caledonian Canal. Next we travel through pretty Glen Moriston and Glen Shiel, scene of the 1719 battle, were we will see the "Five Sisters”, a range of five mountains that dominate the surrounding landscape.

We’ll make a stop so that you can visit Eilean Donan Castle, perched on its island at the head of Loch Duich. You will marvel at the views from this most picturesque of castles.

Soon we cross "over the sea to Skye” by way of the road bridge and head for Broadford, where there is a stop for lunch. Next we take the stunningly beautiful road through Glen Suardal. The pretty Red Cuillin Hills provide a pleasant start to our journey. As we reach the little village of Torrin, the bulk of Bla Bhein (Blanven) comes in to view. Considered by many to be Scotland’s prettiest mountain it provides breathtaking views.

The road descends to hug the banks of Loch Slappin and here we stop to enjoy some beach combing. The next part of our journey involves a steep climb over Strathaird to reach the little community of Elgol beyond. We’ll have an extended stop in Elgol where there are superb views of the Black Cuillin Hills to enjoy. They rise majestically on the opposite banks of Loch Scavaig. If the weather is kind to us there are also stunning seascapes towards Rum and the other Small Isles.

As we cross the Skye Bridge, heading for the mainland, look out for the little island of  Eilean Ban.  The author, Gavin Maxwell, lived in the lighthouse keepers cottage for a while. He is most famous for writing "Ring of Bright Water” - a book that vividly described living with a family of otters.

From Kyle of Lochalsh we continue our journey through picturesque Glen Carron to reach the lonely village of Achnasheen, our final stop of the day. The final part of our journey takes us to Garve then on through the Black Isle. There are fabulous views over the Moray Firth to savour as we reach Inverness by way of the Kessock Bridge.  

Upon our return to town, we’ll pack and prepare for our morning departure to Pitlochry, grab a sandwich, and take a final look around Inverness before getting some sleep.

DAY NINE (FRI 29): TRAIN INVERNESS TO PITLOCHRY; PITLOCHRY

We’ll check-out of the Bluebird this morning, and take the 10:45 AM train to Pitlochry, as we begin to make our way back toward England (1 hr 36 minutes, 0 changes; costing about £21.60 for two of us; we won’t use our rail passes for this leg). We’ll arrive in charming little Pitlochry (population 2,500) at 12:21 PM, explore the town, and sleep one night before continuing to move south.

Check-In Buttonboss Lodge

Buttonboss Lodge is ideally located on Pitlochry's main street, Atholl Road, yet set in its own lovely grounds. Opposite the TI, the shops and restaurants are only a short walk away, and Pitlochry Dam and Fish Ladder (and the famous Pitlochry Festival Theatre) are well within walking distance. The Lodge is 5 minutes away from the bus stop and train station, at 25 Atholl Road (Tel-:01796 472065; www.buttonbosslodge.co.uk; info@buttonbosslodge.co.uk). We’ve reserved a double room with bath/shower and breakfast in the morning for the rate of £65.

Explore Pitlochry; Tour Edradour Distillery

After check-in, we’ll stroll the town’s main street (Atholl Road), shop, and have a bite. At 3:15 PM, we’ll depart via hired car (arranged through our B&B in advance of the trip) three miles outside of town to Edradour Distllery, the smallest in Scotland, making whiskey with the least amount of machinery possible. We’ll arrive in plenty of time for a one-hour tour (costs £5 each; closes at 5:00 PM): http://www.edradour.co.uk/placeframe.html.

Upon our return to the B&B shortly after 5:00 PM, we’ll enjoy an early evening siesta. Afterwards, we’ll have a light dinner and take a walk to see the salmon ladder alongside the town’s lazy river (10 minutes from town). Tonight can be a slow, relaxing night before our long journey to London town in the morning.

If we are up for something, there is a production of Little Shop of Horrors playing at 8:00 PM tonight in town.

DAY TEN (SAT 30): TRAIN PITLOCHRY TO LONDON; LONDON; RONNIE WOOD & FRIENDS CONCERT AT BLUESFEST

Train South to London Town

We’ll have breakfast, checkout of the B&B, and take the 9:23 AM train from Pitlochry to London, England (settling in for a long, relaxing journey, 6 hrs 34 min, 0 changes), arriving at London-King’s Cross Station at 3:57 PM. This is Day 4 (the final day) on our Britrail Pass.

Arrival at King’s Cross Station, London; Check-In Base2Stay Hotel in Kensington

We’ll arrive at King’s Cross at 4:00 PM, and take a black cab to our hotel, Base2Stay Hotel, located at 25 Courtfield Gardens, South Kensington. We could also take the Tube if we like (King’s Cross Underground station to Earl’s Court station via Picadilly Line (Blue): a 20 minute journey. Our Oyster Cards are already pre-loaded. When exiting Earls Court tube station, we should follow signs for Earls Court Road to reach our hotel.

Note that we are on our own for breakfast at this hotel.

Below is your reservation and confirmation information:

Reservation Information

Confirmation Number:  86721320 Status: CONFIRMED

Check In: 30-06-2012

Guest Name: MR John Novick Jr  Check Out: 02-07-2012

Originally Reserved On: 13-02-2012 01:51:51 AM

Property: base2stay kensington  

Modified On: 13-02-2012 01:51:51 AM

Address: 25 Courtfield Gardens Kensington
Number of Nights: 2

Number of Rooms: 1

Telephone: +44 (0) 845 262 8000 or +44 (0) 207 244 2255

Room Type: DOUBLE / TWIN (1-2 PEOPLE)                    

Rate Plan: RACK RATE                         

30-06-2012          RACK     221.00   0.00        221.00

01-07-2012          RACK     175.00   0.00        175.00

________________________________________

Average Rate Per Stay:  198.00

Stay:  396.00          

Total Stay: 396.00   GBP

Policy Information: Your credit card will be charged 221.00  GBP ( First Night's plus applicable taxes ) if you cancel the reservation after 2:00 PM on  28-06-2012

Check-in Time: 14:00

Check-out Time: 11:00

Tel:  +44 (0) 20 7244 2255

Fax: +44 (0) 20 7244 2256

email: info@base2stay.com

website: www.base2stay.com/Kensington

Winner of the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice 2011 Awards for Best Family Friendly Hotel.

Concert: Ronnie Wood & Friends Tribute to Chicago’s Chess Records

After getting settled in our room—by about 5:00 PM or so—we’ll take the Tube from Earl’s Court station (Piccadilly Line) to Hammersmith (or walk) for the 6:30 PM Ronnie Wood & Friends tribute concert to Chicago’s Chess Records at the HMV Hammersmith Apollo on Queen Caroline Street, directly opposite the Broadway Shopping Centre. Hammersmith tube and bus stations are within the shopping centre. There are trains scheduled from Earl’s Court at 5:16, :19, :22, :25, :28 & :31; the ride is only 6 minutes. We’ve purchased the tickets for the show from home via Ticketmaster: Section Circle BLK2, Row O, Seats 57 & 58. Total cost was £111.50 for two. Show starts at 6:30 PM. If time permits, we can grab a bite for dinner near the Hammersmith Apollo, or do so at the concert.

DAY ELEVEN (SUN 1.7): LONDON

Sleep In; Breakfast & Shopping at Spitalfields Sunday Market; Boleyn Ground/Upton Park

We’ll sleep in this morning (until about 9:30 AM if we like), and take the Tube from Earl’s Court to Spitalfields Market, a large, historic East End market (shops, vendors & food, outdoor & in) that began in the 13th Century. Sunday is the market’s biggest day. We’ll take the Piccadilly Line from Earl’s Court towards Arnos Grove or Cockfosters; then change at Holborn Station to the Central Line towards Epping or Hainault or Newbury Park to Liverpool Street Station, close to the market (29 minutes total, including transfer time).

After a few hours (including breakfast, strolling & shopping), we’ll take the Tube from Liverpool Street Station to Upton Park to visit the Boleyn Ground (West Ham): take the Hammersmith & City Line toward White Chapel to Upton Park (a 20 minute journey with 0 changes).

We could have a pint near the park (Hammers’ fans on Twitter suggest the Black Lion Pub, Plaistow Broadway), look around a bit, and then return to the hotel for a siesta via tube or taxi.

To return from Upton Park to our hotel via Tube, take the District Line toward Richmond or Ealing Broadway to Earl’s Court (a 44 minute journey, with 0 changes).

Then we’ll enjoy a siesta back at the hotel.

Our Last Night: Dinner; St. James Park

We’ll have dinner tonight in nearby Earl’s Court. We can consider Zizzi Italian restaurant (194 Earl’s Court Road; http://zizzi.co.uk/venuefinder) OR Dragon Palace Chinese Restaurant (207 Earl’s Court Rd; http://www.thedragonpalace.com) OR As Greek As It Gets (233 Earl’s Court Rd; http://www.asgreekasitgets.co.uk).

After dinner, we’ll take the Tube from Earl’s Court to St. James Park (Green, District Line toward either Barking, Upminster or Tower Hill; 10-11 minutes, 0 changes), where we’ll take a stroll through the park, feed the ducks, and enjoy the evening in Westminster before returning home to pack for our morning departure.

FLIGHT (MON 2.7): FLY LONDON, ENGLAND TO CHICAGO, USA

We’ll rise by 6:45 AM this morning, shower, check-out of the hotel, and meet our pre-arranged black cab in front for the 30-minute ride to Heathrow-Terminal 3 (about £50). We’ll check bags and board our 11:00 AM non-stop flight (Virgin Atlantic Airways Flight VS39, arriving in Chicago at 1:55 PM, an 8 hr 55 min flight). We should get back to Lincoln Park today by about 3:30 PM.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Phoning U.S. using an international phone card we purchase in Europe: call the number on the card, and enter your PIN when prompted; then enter 001-area code-seven digit US number.

Weather: the average high temperature in York and Edinburgh in late June-early July is about 64 degrees Fahrenheit; average high in Inverness is 62 degrees; average high in Pitlochry is 65. Night-time lows in Scotland will be in the high 40s. London high averages 75.

Emergencies, go to any phone and dial 999 for the police AND for medical emergencies

Tipping: Tip about 10% in restaurants unless service charge included; only tip for full table service, not bar service. Simply round up for taxis.

TRIP BUDGET AS OF 9 APRIL 2012

Based on $1.67 US per GBP

• Airfare: $2,115.42 US TOTAL
• Lodging: (11 nights: 2 York, 3 Edinburgh, 3 Inverness, 1 Pitlochry & 2 London): 1,500 GBP or $2,505 US TOTAL
• Transportation (buses, trains, taxis): 225 GBP (taxis, local trains, cab to Heathrow upon departure) or $372 US + $763 US for Britrail Passes (1st Class) = $1,140 US TOTAL
• Entrance Fees/Tours: 450 GBP or $750 TOTAL
• Per Diem (meals & shopping): 150 GBP per day x 11 = 1,650 GBP or $2,755 US TOTAL

TOTAL COST OF TRIP: $9,265.0 US for 1 Couple