GÓÐAN DAGINN ISLAND (Good Day, Iceland)
Reykjavik; Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall; Hot Springs of Geysir & Strokkur; Whale Watching; Black Sand Beach; Snaefellsness Peninsual; Deild Karla Football Match; Blue Lagoon Geothermal Spa
Friday, 24 June to Friday, 1 July 2011
- Fly Chicago to Reykjavik, Iceland (0 stop), 24-6-11 (Friday), departing O’Hare at 6:40 PM on Iceland Express Flight 5W48, arriving in Iceland at 5:40 AM on 25-6 (Saturday): a 6 hr 0 min direct flight (Iceland is 5 hours ahead of Chicago)
- 6 nights Reykjavik, Iceland, 25-6 (Saturday) through 1-7 (Friday), with various day trips
- Fly Reykjavik, Iceland to Chicago, 1-7 (Friday), departing Reykjavik at 3:30 PM on Iceland Express Flight 5W457, arriving back at Chicago-O’Hare at 5:10 PM: a 6hr 40 min direct flight
Arrival; Flybus to Reykjavik City Center
Upon arrival in Reykjavik at Keflavik Airport at 5:40 AM, we’ll clear customs and use an ATM to purchase 60,000 ISK (about $528 US). While Iceland is very credit card-friendly—and while we’ll have cash Euros for our hotel payment from our bank—some cash is good to have on-hand. Then we’ll take the next available Flybus to the BSI Bus Terminal in the city center (we’ve also paid for a shuttle from BSI to our hotel, Hotel Reykjavik Centrum). The Flybus departs the airport from just outside the terminal. We’ll check the board in the airport to confirm upcoming bus departures. We have already purchased our tickets online at http://www.re.is/Flybus. We’ve also paid to be picked up at our hotel the day of our departure from Iceland (inform our hotel front desk the night before we depart of our flight details and request Flybus pickup in front of the hotel). These tickets cost us 9000 ISK, or about $80.00 US, round trip. We need to bring our printed voucher from the Internet and exchange it for boarding passes at the Flybus sales counter at the airport. The total travel time to our hotel (bus from airport to BSI and then shuttle to our hotel) will be 50-75 minutes.
REVIEW: Flybus was perfect! Highly recommend instead of costly taxi. Also, the ATM at the airport would only allow us to pull half of what we wanted (a limit on withdrawals). We simply took more from an ATM in the city center later in the week. Finally, you may want to visit the duty free shop at the airport and purchase some wine (or whatever your favorite alcoholic beverage is) to enjoy at the hotel, since alcohol is very expensive in Iceland. This is what locals do whenever passing through the airport.
What about Iceland Express Airlines? Well, this airline has two very important things going for it: it is the only airline to fly non-stop between Chicago and Iceland (once a week during the summer, on Fridays), and it is dirt cheap, offering round-trip fares under $700. But while I'll acknowledge that at the time of our flight the service was still very new (a few weeks' old), the comfort, reliability, communication and timeliness...were awful. Our flights to and from were hours late, with no effective communication to help us plan our departures. Finding personnel at the airports who could tell us what was going on was a constant challenge. And when we did find airline personnel, their information conflicted with what was posted on the departure boards around the airports. At O'Hare, there was no counter space devoted to Iceland Express in Terminal 5, causing great confusion. Then a few hours before departure, an Iceland Express magnet was placed over an Alitalia sign, creating the space for check-in. And once we finally boarded the plane for our late departure, we found the crew to be friendly enough, but they did nothing throughout the flight, selling beverages once, but not even equipped to offer pillows or blankets. And the seats? Think of the comfort afforded by wooden bleachers--for almost six hours. I would not say, however, that this is definitely an airline to avoid: it's just that it's a discount airline offering a one-of-a-kind service...and the quality of that service reflects the price you pay, and the market for the service. You should know that before you buy.
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Check-In Hotel Reykjavik Centrum
At Hotel Reykjavik Centrum, we’ve reserved a standard double room with en suite bath for 6 NIGHTS (+1 for the early AM checkin) through the hotel’s Smart Web Deal (at €202 per night, including breakfast): €1,415 TOTAL (about $2,093 US). Phone is 354-514-6000; fax is 354-514-6030; info@hotelcentrum.is; www.hotelcentrum.is. Breakfast is served daily from 7:00-10:00 AM. While our breakfast is included, a week’s Internet access is about $45.00 US (or 5,000 ISK). We’ll pay for this upon check-in (a week). Cancellation policy: in case of cancellation less than 48 hours prior to arrival or in case of no-show, one night-stay will be charged on your credit card. Check-in time is 02:00 pm. Check-out until 11:00 am.
About Our Hotel
Visit the fascinating exhibit under Hotel Reykjavik Centrum to see the remains of a Viking longhouse together with Iceland’s oldest human remains, dating from approximately 870 AD! Hotel Reykjavik Centrum is located on one of the city’s oldest streets, Adalstraeti, in a newly renovated building, the oldest part of which dates back to 1764. City life with shops, restaurants, cafes, clubs, museums and culture is within walking distance. Reykjavik Centrum’s award-winning restaurant Fjalaköttur serves traditional Icelandic dishes, complemented by an extensive wine list. Uppsalir, the hotel’s cozy bar & cafe welcomes guests to relax in a cozy atmosphere.
REVIEW: Lovely hotel, with friendly service and a great bar (if you like beer, try the Danish Tuborg on draft: amazing). Room and bed were quite comfortable. Hotel was spotless, in terms of cleanliness. Breakfast okay, but not great (would probably opt for a local cafe or bakery, instead). Wi-Fi was a bit unreliable...not great, given that you pay for it. And because of the seafood restaurant attached to the hotel, parts of the building smell like fish (but not our room). Overall, though, this hotel has an ideal and historic location in the city center, within easy walking distance to everything (except Pearlan), and our stay was very comfortable. On a return trip to Reykjavik, we'd definitely stay here, again. We slept like babies.
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Get Settled: Old Harbor/Lake Tjornin; Café Haiti; Shopping; Hallgrimskirkja
After getting settled in our hotel—probably between 8:00-9:00 AM—we’ll head up to the harbor to watch the fishing boats come in. One place to consider for something to eat at the Old Harbor is Café Haiti, featuring coffee/espresso and pastries (highly recommended on Trip Advisor).
Then we can could walk down Skolavordustigur street, with artsy galleries. We can shop for some quirky Icelandic designed art, clothing or jewelry (be sure to see the store called Kraum - Icelandic Design). Other shops to visit today or any day this week include: 66°North shops; Iceland giftstore Rammagerðin; DOGMA T-shirt shop; Cintamani shop; and Viking Souvenir shop.
At the top of the hill is the enormous concrete church, Hallgrimskirkja the symbol of the city. We’ll take an elevator to the top of the tower of this church for the wonderful views (400 ISK each, or about $3.50 per person). The church was built between 1940 and 1974. The radical design caused great controversy. The columns on both sides of the tower represent volcanic rock (basalt), a common theme for Icelandic nationalists, and a symbol of the culture.
After the church and tower, we could cross the road to the Einar Johnson Museum, a sculptor whose works have been described as “weird,” “gloomy” and “fantastical”; no need to go inside the museum, though—just go to the garden in back to get a sense of what his work is like (26 bronze casts there). The artist designed the building housing the museum, too. www.skulptur.is.
Then we could stroll and shop, eventually making our way down to Lake Tjornin (locals call it simply the Pond), where a favorite pastime is feeding the ducks. We will also visit city hall (literally built onto the lake) and the nearby National Gallery.
REVIEW: While the National Gallery was on our itinerary, it turns out this museum does not actually display any of the art listed in guidebooks as part of its permanent collection. The front desk told me the guidebooks are causing them a lot of headaches. Instead, the museum (also not free, as described by Lonely Planet, but about $10.00 US), features one or two modern artists in two small rooms. We still visited, but it was not at all what we had hoped in breadth and scale and quality. This is surprising, given how creative Icelanders are and how important the arts are to this wonderful culture. I think this is something they can work on, that is developing a national gallery that does justice to the talent and history (and phenomenal creative output) of the nation. Should you visit? I'd call ahead and check on the two artists currently being exhibited (or visit the website) before deciding.
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Then we’ll head to the main tourist office—perhaps taking a break at the hotel first?—for a guided walking tour.
Guided City Walking Tour: 1:00 PM
At 12:45 PM we’ll head to the My Reykjavik Concierge TRAVELLERS Information at Hafnarstræti 4 (inside the "Wool Market") for the free two-hour guided walking tour of the city, commencing at 1:00 PM (tips are appreciated): http://www.goecco.com/Index/goecco/Trips/CityWalks/FreeTourofReykjavik.
We'll walk you through the history of Reykjavik, from its start as a muddy colonial village by the smoky bay to becoming a modern city in the North. We take you where others don't and tell you the stories you'd never hear otherwise. From the wild history of colonial time under the king of Norway and Denmark, to the tragedy of the down town Architectural story and British occupation, we aim to give you a perfect introduction to REYKJAVIK. On this two hour easy-walking tour we cover all of the main sights of the inner city. Our unique style of combining history with pure entertainment (infotainment) has made us one of the most popular walking tour companies in Iceland.
After the tour concludes at about 3:00 PM, we’ll return to the hotel for a few hours to enjoy a late afternoon siesta. If we want bite to eat we could consider Café Paris, a great people-watching place on Austurvollur Square, with outdoor seating in the summer. Features light meals like sandwiches, salads, crepes, tacos, etc. We could also consider Svarta Kaffio at Laugavegur 54, with great home-made soup in bread bowls and other lunch options.
In terms of getting around, the capital area has an excellent bus system (Strætó). Most buses run every 15 minutes, and every 30 or 60 minutes in the evening and at weekends. Bus information is available at the bus stations at Hlemmur and Laekjartorg, at the Tourist Information Centre, Adalstraeti 2, and on the Straeto website: http://www.straeto.is/english. Single adult fares run from 350 ISK to 1000 ISK (about $3.00 to $9.00 US) depending on the zone and distance. Exact fare required.
Then we’ll take a siesta at the hotel from about 3:00 or 4:00 PM until 6:00 PM.
REVIEW: The walking tour was wonderful...but edgy (in a good and humorous way for us, but perhaps not for all). The guide was entertaining as we strolled through the city center learning about Reykjavik's history, but once in a while he dropped an F-bomb and offered some off-color jokes (about hunting and eating whale, which Icelanders still do, and a few comments of a sexual nature). We were not the least offended, but visitors should know that this is not a standard sort of historical walk.
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First Night in Reykjavik
We have friends in Reykjavik, and so this evening they held a fantastic barbecue for us at their home, which was a highlight of our trip (such kind, generous, fun people!). But for most visitors, options for tonight might include a live musical performance at Harpa, dinner at Perlan (fancy and pricey but great views above the city), or dinner at the Harbor followed by an evening stroll through the town or around Tjorn. The later one stays up, of course, the better one will sleep tonight.
DAY 2 (SUN 26.6): 9:00 AM WHALE WATCHING CRUISE
Whale Watching Cruise: 9:00 AM-Noon
This morning we’ll have breakfast and walk up to the harbor in time for our 9:00 AM whale and puffin watching cruise with the Elding tour company, specializing in whale watching. We’ve reserved our tickets online for the 3 hour cruise at http://www.elding.is/elding (8000 ISK each, or about $141.00 total, for two), but have not paid, yet. The Elding dock is located on the Old Harbor of Reykjavik (pier Ægisgarður), which is located in Ægisgarður.
The whales most frequently seen on tours with Elding are the minke whales, humpback whales, dolphins and porpoises; other species are sometimes spotted. During the summer the boats leave at 09:00, 13:00 and 17:00 and we have additional tours at 10:00 and 14:00 during the high season. Our tours are about 3 hours at sea (see the schedule). For your comfort and warmth, we have special suits on board we can lend you, but we do advise you to wear your warmest clothes - hats, scarves, gloves etc – as it can get very cold, even on the warmest of days. We also offer hot drinks and light refreshments on our on-board café. Alternatively, you can sit inside the boat in the warmth, where you can watch the whales outside from large windows. We have excellent guides to tell you about your trip and describe what you can see and where to look, together with an introduction and safety guide. We tell you about the seabirds and nature in the Faxofloi bay. How much we see depends on the sea conditions and season, but our qualified guides are happy to try to answer all your questions. Depending on the tide and sea we start or end the trip by going to either Akurey or Lundey to watch the puffins (May 15.-Aug 15.) No two whale watching trips are the same. We need to be flexible and organize your trip taking sea conditions, weather and seasons into account. We rarely have to go further than 15 nautical miles from the harbor. Each trip takes about 2,5-3,5 hours: do join us. We look forward to seeing you!
Options for lunch could be a hotdog (popular in Iceland!) from a street vendor near the harbor; Eldsmidjan (www.eldsmidjan.is), the best pizzas in town; a little café called Babalu; or Café Haiti near the harbor, where we had breakfast on the day of arrival.
REVIEW: The Elding whale watching tour was great, but they're not lying when they say that even in the summer one should dress warm. The winds were strong and cold...and it was June. Toward the end I did start to get a little seasick, but the bar on the lower level of the ship provides seasickness pills free for the asking...and this helped. We saw four whales in action on the cruise by following sea birds who feed on the same small fish as whales. While it was interesting to see Puffin Island on the way back to the harbor, the boat simply cannot get close enough to see these delightful little birds very well (wish we had brought a good pair of binoculars along; recommend doing so). After the cruise, our friends took us for a hotdog at Bill Clinton's favorite stand along the harbor, and for a soup at the beautiful black sand beach south of the capital (a restaurant affording stunning views rests on a bluff above the beach). If you have rented a car (we did not), highly recommend stopping here.
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Second Night
Same options as first night (concert at Harpa, dinner and views at Perlan, or dinner at harbor and evening stroll).
If The Pearl tonight, we should proceed to the Hlemmur bus stop to catch bus #18 to Perlan (about 2 km from the city center). Another option is taxi. Perlan is an otherworldly creation with a viewing platform and a revolving restaurant on top of hot water storage tanks. A hexagonal viewing deck offers 360-degree panoramas of the city and mountains. Then we’ll dine at either the fine dining restaurant, Perlan, or the café near the viewing deck. The café is open until 9:00 PM, while the restaurant is open until 10:00 PM. The café offers lighter fare, delicious breads, coffee cakes, and pastries are among the bakery's goods available in The Pearls Cafeteria. You will also find hot soups, sandwiches and assorted salads. The restaurant, which rotates slowly over a two-hour period, offering beautiful views, features beef, lamb and fish, and ala carte prices run about $45.00 US per main course. The wine list is weighted toward France. www.perlan.is.
The Pearl is a magnificent structure. Formally opened to the public on 21 June 1991, it combines utility and vision. Hollow steel framing supports the glass dome and walls that link six aluminum-sided tanks, each of which can contain 4 million liters of water averaging 85°C (185°F). As part of The Pearl's heating system, hot water is pumped through the metal framework in winter, while cold water flows during summer, thereby producing a comfortable year-round environment. The Viewing Deck on Level 4 takes full advantage of the panorama enjoyed from Oskjuhlid; telescopes mounted at each of the six corners of the deck with recorded descriptions in Icelandic, English, Norwegian, German and French.
REVIEW: While we did not dine at Perlan, we did visit the viewing platform and enjoy a latte and pastry from the cafe. The views of the city--houses, municipal airport, harbor, and the mountain--are wonderful, and well worth the short trip from the city center. There is a touristy exhibit on Vikings and a small gift shop, too. Tip: when you're ready to leave, there may not be taxis anywhere nearby, but the staff in the gift shop is more than happy to call one for you; took only five minutes.
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DAY 3 (MON 27.6): GOLDEN CIRCLE GUIDED DAY TRIP; LET’S TALK ICELAND SHOW TONIGHT
Golden Circle Tour: 9:00 AM-4:30 PM
This morning we’ll have breakfast and be ready for our pickup between 8:30 and 9:00 AM for our 7-8 hour day trip visiting the so-called Golden Circle (pickup will be a coach with words GATEWAY TO ICELAND on it; get the right coach, as there are other companies). This tour will include Thingvellir National Park, Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir hot spring & Haukadalur thermal area, and Kerið crater. The firm promises more than seven hours of “geographic excellence and photographic wonders.” The cost will be 8000 ISK each (or about $141.00 US total, for two). We booked our trip online at http://www.gti.is/eng/catalog/tour3.html from home, and should produce our confirmation email when collected by the coach. We can pay by credit card or ISK, our choice.
Just over 100 kilometers outside Reykjavík we travel to one of Europe´s largest waterfalls, the beautiful Gullfoss. We visit Thingvellir, site of the World´s first Parliament that met each year outdoors, beginning in 930 AD continuing until 1798. After we have been at Thingvellir we drive to the geothermal fields of Haukadalur where you will be able to stand up close to an erupting geyser.
On our route there are few other interesting sites and stops along the way such as Kerið, a mesmerizing and lake filled crater, just off the main highway. The acoustics of this beautiful crater has drawn artists, such as Icelandic singer Björk, which in 1986 held a concert in the middle of the crater.
We should return from this day trip at about 4:30 PM, at which time we’ll take a relaxing siesta, or do some strolling/shopping, if we like.
REVIEW: Amazing day! Cannot recommend enough. While our driver did forget a pickup at a nearby hotel--and we had to wait at a small shop outside of town while they were taxied to our minibus--the rest of the day was wonderful. Waterfalls, geysers, craters, fields of volcanic rock, historic sites (including Iceland's birthplace, a stunning national park), blue lakes, green fields, mountains...worth every penny, and every minute. But a cold, powerful wind blew all day long...something for which to be prepared, even in June.
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Tonight: Let’s Talk Iceland Show
By 6:40 PM we’ll head out after our siesta to get something to eat before seeing the Let’s Talk Iceland show at a new restaurant called Vikingakrain (Viking Inn; www.vikingakrain.is/index_en.htm). The address is Hafnarstraeti 1-3, 101 Reykjavik (entrance through the gate). We won’t eat here (supposed to touristy) but will see the 8:00 PM show.
Possibilities for dinner beforehand include Tapas Barinn (www.tapis.is) or Hornio, with freshly-made pizzas and pasta, plus Icelandic dishes. Both are recommended in Lonely Planet Iceland.
As for the show, it will cost 2,200 ISK each, or about $39.00 US total, for two. The show runs nightly from 1 January 2010 to 30 November, and lasts about one hour. We’ve reserved our tickets under the name John Novick Jr for tonight, and can pay when we collect them by credit card or cash.
Let's Talk Iceland tells you all you need to know about the history of Iceland and Icelanders from settlement until present day. It is a fun and vibrant play in English. You will meet two Vikings and go on an unforgettable journey with them through the history of Iceland and discuss the strange people living there namely the Icelanders. You will participate in historical events. The Vikings will reenact various events from the past and you will be a part of it and if something is not clear, just interrupt and ask them. You will laugh and learn. The two Vikings do know Iceland and the history like the back of their hands but they are also very amusing and entertaining. Enjoy this fantastic comedy show and learn a little something while doing so.
After the show concludes (at around 9:00 PM), we can take a night-time stroll—or go to sleep early (a pretty long day today).
REVIEW: Can't comment on the Let's Talk Iceland Show, as we just felt a bit run down, and opted out. Did stop by to let them know we wouldn't attend, and the staff was friendly. The place looked 'fake' Viking, but it doesn't mean the show wouldn't have been entertaining, anyway. We had dinner and relaxed at the hotel. As for the restaurants, Hornio and Barinn, we tried them both during the course of the week, and liked them both (probably Hornio a bit more). The tapas and service at Hornio were just wonderful (and the bread they serve when you sit down...wow). There was nothing wrong with Hornio (freshly-made pizzas and salads); we shared a caprese salad and a pizza margharita (both above average, but not great). Barinn and Hornio are attractive and comfortable, located right there in the center of town (just 2-3 blocks from the hotel), and both with romantic interiors. Just felt like Barinn was more of an experience.
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DAY 4 (TUE 28.6): BLUE LAGOON; CONCERT/HARPA
Blue Lagoon Geothermal Spa
We’ll rise early today and meet our 8:30 AM Gray Line Iceland Excursions bus to the Blue Lagoon in front of our hotel; we booked our round trip bus in advance at a cost of 3,515 ISK each (7,030 ISK total) or about $62.00 US total). We have paid for the bus without entrance to the Blue Lagoon, since we are purchasing the Executive Lounge package at the Blue Lagoon, for more privacy.
We have our Gray Line Iceland Excursions bus confirmation printout with us, including bar code. Be sure to have it for boarding the bus this morning.
We’ll arrive at about 9:50 AM (a 50-minute bus ride), and proceed to the front desk. We have already booked the Exclusive Lounge (they have our name at the desk) an option for guests looking for more privacy than possible in the regular communal showers and locker rooms.
Our area will include six private changing rooms and private showers for 1-2 people and access to a reserved lounge with modern design furniture, a fireplace and a private indoor lagoon with access to the Blue Lagoon outside. On the second floor, there's an outdoor deck overlooking the lagoon. Light refreshments are served at the lounge, free of charge, and selected dishes from LAVA Restaurant can be ordered. Our cost is €135 total (about $196 US), entitling a couple to 3 hours (we pay in person, not in advance). If we choose, we can eat lunch here before we return to the city.
We are required to take a complete shower first, and then change into our swimwear, before proceeding to the Blue Lagoon. In most places, one is able to stand in the water, so knowing how to swim is not a necessity (although life guards are on duty). After our shower, we’ll spend time in the warm water outside, relaxing and enjoying the surreal landscape. Then, once we’re done, we can return to the lounge, change, and stroll the grounds, taking photos and visiting the gift shop. We could also checkout the balcony or hang out in the lounge overlooking the Blue Lagoon and read or talk.
We should plan to return to Reykjavik via the 12:00 PM or 3:00 PM Gray Line Iceland Excursions bus, arriving back in town after a 50-minute ride. We have 3 hours available to us a the lagoon, but we could shop there and have lunch afterward, if we want the 3:00 PM bus.
Once back in Reykjavik, we have pre-purchased tickets to an Icelandic music show at 5:00 PM, and need to leave for the Harpa concert hall at 4:30 PM (located at the harbor). If we take the 3:00 PM bus, we’ll have just a half hour before we leave for the show. If we take the 12:00 PM bus (and take just two hours at the lagoon), we’ll have a solid three hours to chill or explore the city.
REVIEW: Is the Blue Lagoon touristy? Perhaps. I mean Icelanders have their own neighborhood geothermal pools close to home for daily use, so why would they drive 50 minutes out of town and pay a premium to soak with those coming or going from the nearby airport? Still, this is a don't miss experience. The only way to picture it (sans pictures, of course) it is to imagine yourself wading comfortably along in naturally heated blue water amid a lunar landscape of black rock. I don't even like water, and I spent nearly two happy hours in the lagoon with my wife (who could have stayed for another two hours with ease). Completely relaxing, and entirely original for your eyes and mind. While the Executive Lounge package is by no means necessary, we prefer a bit more privacy when showering and changing (our American puritan roots, no doubt), and I have to say, this splurge enhanced the entire experience for us, with beverages, fresh fruit, coffee, a secure place for our belongings, a private entrance to the lagoon, a section of indoor pool, and even a fireplace for our enjoyment. I think if we go back, we'd do it all again.
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5:00 PM: Women in Icelandic Music at Harpa
At about 4:30 PM, we’ll head to Harpa concert hall, a brand new glass, concrete and steel venue at the east harbor (opened in May), for the 5:00 PM Women in Icelandic Music concert, a 75 minute show with a brief intermission. We already paid for our tickets at www.midi.is. Our reference number is 98F39, but we also have our confirmation email to collect our tickets at the box office. We paid 6,000 ISK total, or about $53.00, in advance of our trip.
Composers, poets or subjects? This program explores the roles women play in Icelandic music. Sung in Icelandic and introduced in English
Length: Around 75 min (with break)
Performers: 2 Singers and a Pianist
Location: Kaldalón – 4th Hall Harpa
The show will conclude at 6:15 PM. If we’re hungry afterward, we could consider Laekjarbrekka (www.laekjarbrekka.is), open from 11:30 AM-11:30 PM, or the café or restaurant at Harpa. After the show, we have a free night in Reykjavik to do whatever we like—or go to bed early!
REVIEW: Harpa is stunning. And while our little concert was not in the main hall (but in one of many small performance spaces), the show was absolutely beautiful, with Icelandic music and lyrics, but English introductions (the stories behind the songs). The vocalists and musician were well-trained professionals...and Icelandic. This venue and our own little hall were designed to capture elements of the nation's geological history, with walls inspired by volcanic rock formations and splashes of red fabric, representing fire. The placement of this national music treasure, right at the harbor, filled with colorful fishing and touring ships, is also striking. Don't go to Reykjavik without a show at Harpa--and I highly recommend something Icelandic.
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DAY 5 (WED 29.6): SNAEFELLSNESS PENINSULA
We spent this day with our friends, who took us on a driving tour to the west coast, the Snaefellsness Peninsula, a remarkable national park that has a coastline resembling the Cliffs of Moher in the west of Ireland: high, rugged, colorful (brown, yellow and red mountains, green fields, black rock, and blue water)--unforgettable. This area also affords one views of a glacier, the first we've ever seen.
REVIEW: The drive from Reykjavik takes about three hours one-way, but with a rental car, is well worth it, especially with an early start. In addition, there are tour companies available (info at the hotel) who will transport you via mini-bus on a day-long journey here. While the ride initially seemed long to us for a holiday, once we arrived and saw the unique beauty of the surroundings, we were so grateful for the opportunity to visit this area. And the lovely dinner provided by our friends at their summer home on the coast made an already great day even more memorable.
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DAY 6 (THU 30.6): SLEEP IN; REYKJAVIK; FOOTBALL MATCH AT 8:00 PM
Sleep In; Shopping; Botanic Gardens; Reykjavik 871
We’ll sleep in today, have a late breakfast, and do some shopping before visiting the Botanic Gardens (open 10:00 AM-10:00 PM; admission is free: www.grasagardur.is). We could also stroll along the pond.
Main shopping streets include Laugavegur (the central shopping avenue), Skolavordustigur, Austurstraeti and Hafnarstraeti.
In addition, we could visit Reykjavik 871 (www.reykjavik871.is), right next to (and, in fact, beneath) our hotel. Built around a 10th Century Viking house, this museum experience is ultra-high tech; open 10 AM-5 PM; 600 ISK each, or about $10.00 total for two. Another possible site to see is the Raohus (or city hall), located on the water and open 8 AM-7 PM. Admission is free.
We could have lunch at any place listed earlier in the itinerary that we missed to this point.
The afternoon is wide open for sleeping, reading, shopping, or perhaps visiting the National Museum (www.natmus.is), free, opens at 10:00 AM OR the Culture House (www.thjodmenning.is), 300 IKR each (or about $5.50 US total for two), opens at 11:00 AM.
Then we’ll enjoy a relaxing siesta back at the hotel.
Tonight: Icelandic Football Match at 8:00 PM
Then at about 7:00 PM we’ll take a taxi or bus to Fjölnisvöllur to see the football match between Fjölnir (Reykjavik) and Leiknir, with kick-off slated for 8:00 PM. We reserved our tickets in advance, and should collect them under the name John Novick upon arrival at the stadium.
To get to the stadium (called Fjolnisvollur) we could take the bus (350 ISK each, or about $6.00) or a taxi from our hotel (about 4,000 ISK, or about $35.00). For the bus, we should catch the 7:15 PM bus #6 at Adalstraeti, a station 100 meters from our hotel, and get off at Fjolnisvollur (a 27 min ride from when we board until our stiop). Once off the bus, it’s a four-minute walk to the stadium.
The tickets for the match on hold for us will be 1200 ISK each (2400 ISK total, or about $21.00 US total).
This is a First Division game in Iceland, one level below the Premier Division. Fjölnir was founded in 1988. Fjölnir’s team nickname is the Bitter Lemon! Round trip taxi to/from Fjölnisvöllur will cost about 7000 ISK (about $60.00 US total). The stadium is about 15 minutes drive from the city center. We could also get there by bus (much cheaper), for about 1400 ISK for two, round trip (about $12.00 US total).
NOTE: Before leaving the hotel, however, we should ask the front desk to make certain the Flybus collects us at the hotel tomorrow afternoon in time for our 3:30 PM departing flight for home.
We may take a taxi home from the game (about 4,000 ISK or $35.00 US), if one’s available. If not, we’ll retrace our steps via the bus.
Our Last Night
We will depart the hotel tomorrow around noon for home, and so after the game, we can take one last night-time stroll around Reykjavik, before doing some initial packing.
REVIEW: We never made it to the botanic gardens, but I do recommend 45 minutes for Reykjavik 871, which does a fantastic job detailing the founding of the city, centered around the ruins of an original Viking long house. Interesting and well done, really capturing your imagination. The football match was also great fun...what's not to like about a home side whose nickname is "The Bitter Lemons"? Got cold, however, and so we left at the half. Still an interesting match. While the level of play was certainly not world class (second division), the athletes played hard and quite physically...which I hear is a trait of Scandinavian play. Colorful, energetic and competitive. A nice way to spend an evening in Reykjavik at an unbeatable price. Can't comment on the bus service, since our friend from Reykjavik, David, accompanied us, and so he drove.
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FLIGHT (FRI 1.7): FLIGHT KEFLAVIK TO O’HARE
After breakfast this morning, we’ll finish packing for our departure for home, checkout of the hotel, and take a final look around Reykjavik before meeting the Flybus in front of our hotel at TBA PM (we’ll have confirmed the pickup time with our hotel front desk last night, but it will probably be around noon).We’ve already purchased our Flybus tickets via the Internet, from home, and simply have to show our vouchers.
At the airport, we’ll clear security and check in for our 3:30 PM non-stop flight from Reykjavik to Chicago on Iceland Exoress Flight 5W457, arriving at Chicago-O’Hare at 5:10 PM (a 6hr 40 min flight). Then we’ll take a taxi back to the city, probably getting back to Lincoln Park by 7:00 PM.
EXPENSES (21 JUNE 2011) Based on $1.55 US per €; .0089 US cents per ISK (Icelandic Kronur)
- Airfare (includes flight insurance and seats with additional legroom): $1,626 US
- Lodging: (6 nights): €1,414 = $2,093 US
- Ground Transport (bus to/from airport, estimated taxis): 13,200 ISK x .0088 = $115 US
- Entrance Fees/Tours 42,000 ISK x .0089 = $374
- Per Diem Breakfast included with hotel; 3500 ISK for lunch; 8000 ISK for dinner; and 15,000 ISK per day shopping, etc = 21,500 ISK x 6 = 159,000 ISK x .0089 = $1,415 US
TOTAL COST OF THIS SIX-NIGHT TRIP: $5,735.00
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