A Week in Italy for Christmas - Buon Natale 2007
Venizia, Firenze, Siena & Roma
Friday, December 21st through Sunday, December 30th
--FLIGHT: CHICAGO TO MILANO--
Chicago to Milano, Fri Dec 21 3:30 PM- Sat Dec 22 7:30 AM: Flight
3:30 PM Flight Chicago to Milano: Arrive 7:25 AM 12/22
Leave Friday, 12/21, via Alitalia Flight 627 from O'Hare, departing at 3:30 PM. Arrives in Milan, Italy (Malpensa Airport) at 7:25 AM Italy-time on Saturday, 12/22. Cost, including return flight on Monday morning, 12/31 from Rome to Chicago is $2,274.00 total (includes both of our air fares).
--DAY ONE: MILANO & VENEZIA--
At Malpensa Airport: by Europa phone card (about e5 for 220 min to US) at tabacchi shop. Find shuttle bus to Milano Centrale Station. Buy two tickets (they leave every 20 min or so). About e6 each. Departs from the front of the airport outside exit 5, stops 2 and 3.
Milan Airport to Central Train Station, Sat Dec 22 8:00 AM - Bus
Shuttle Bus from Malpensa Airport to Central Station; Visit Milan’s Piazza Duomo
Milan is the capital of Lombardy, and located about 30 miles south of the Alps. It is very near the Lake district, including Lakes Como and Maggiore. Malpensa, the airport to the northwest, is a big international airport. The main train station, Milano Centrale at Piazza Duca d' Aosta, links to major cities in Italy and western Europe. The Malpensa Shuttle Coach Buses connect each 20 minutes the Milan Central train station with Malpensa Airport. About e6 each.
Milano is Italy’s 2nd city. For every church in Rome, there’s a bank in Milan. It’s the financial and industrial capital of the country. Also the fashion capital.
At Centrale (built by Mussolini, meant to make people feel small vs. his Fascist government): get train tickets to Venezia (2 first class). Check our bags. Probably done with this about 9:00 AM. With about 90-120 min to visit Milano afterward. Take Metro to Piazza Duomo (about 8 min from Centrale). Visit interior of Duoma and rooftop deck. Behind the Duomo is a vibrant shopping district. Eat breakfast/lunch at or near Piazza Duomo. Get back to Centrale by 11:30 AM.
Milano to Venezia, Sat Dec 22 11:45am: Train
11:55 AM Train to Venice
Milano to Venezia
Take 11:55 AM train from Milan's Centrale station to Venice St. Lucia: Train 121 "Cisalpino Monteverdi." Arrive in Venice at 2:30 PM. Cost about e60 for two 1st class.
Exit at Santa Lucia station if possible. If not, take bus to island. At Santa Lucia, exit station and go left. Take vaporetto (water taxi) 82. Buy ticket for e5 at window. Make sure the vaporetto goes to Piazza San Marco. Exit at the San Zacarria stop and walk the few blocks: take Calle dei Albanesi (two streets left of the pink Hotel Denieli). Our hotel, Locanda al Leon, is at the far end of the street on the left. IF THE SAN ZACARRIA STOP IS CLOSED, ANYWHERE IN PIAZZA SAN MARCO.
Venice: once the world’s richest city, the ‘middle man’ between east-west trade prior to the discovery of America and new water routes to the east. Now rotting and sinking. Decadent, a spot for tourists hundreds of years ago, and now. Get off the beaten path. Wander alleyways and streets. Safe. Rialto Bridge; Piazza San Marco. Clock Tower in Piazza the entryway to main shopping area.
Venezia, Sat Dec 22 2:30 PM: Hotel
Checkin Locanda al Leon (2 Nights)
Phone: 041-277-0393 Campo S.S. Filippo e Giacomo 4270
For two nights, the 22nd and 23rd. A few blocks from the bustling Piazza San Marco. Pay in cash, e220.00 ($320.00 US) total, for both nights. Family owned. Email: leon@hotelalleon.com: Giuliano & Marcella.
Notes:
AVG TEMP Venezia December: 45 degrees. Population: 309,000 total, but about 65,000 in its 'Old' city proper.
Venezia, Sat Dec 22 3:30 PM: Things to Do
Afternoon Walk, Lunch & Visit Murano
Lunch on St. Mark's Square, the grand masin square, always open, and near our hotel; St. Mark's Basillica; Doge's Palace; Rialto Bridge.
Trattoria Pizzeria Nono Risorto is recommended for the best pizza in town. Unpretentious, inexpensive, youthful. Huge salads, good pasta, $10.00 pizzas. Open Saturdays Noon-4:30 PM, and then 7-11 PM. To get there, find Campo San Cassiano and its just over the bridge on Sotoportego de Siora Bettina. Also, Venetian Cichetti bars feature 'toothpick' food and drinks, with small seating areas outdoors and stand-up bars. Visiting a number on a giro d'ombra (pub crawl) is a Venetian tradition. Wander, explore, walk, walk, walk. Visit Murano today for glass blowing…
Restaurants: “pane coperto” = cover charge, usually e2. Tipping: if “servizio incluso” don’t tip, since gratuity is included in meal, or leave only e2. If not included, tip 5-10%, only.
“Il conto?” means “Check?”
Taxis: round up for gratuity, to next euro.
Venezia, Sat Dec 22 6:00 PM: Things to Do
Evening Venice Grande Canal gondola ride?
Take #1 cruise, 45 minutes, not shorter one.
About $175.00 U.S. for an evening gondola ride. Expensive, but worth it, according to Steves. But check on weather!
--DAY TWO: VENEZIA--
Venezia, Sun Dec 23 10:00 AM: Things to Do
Explore on Foot & Venice in a Day Tour
Hike, shop, relax
Restaurant recommendation: Enoteca e Trattoria la Bitta serves nicely traditional Venetian food, with, proudly, no fish! Small menu focused on quality: pastas, secondi, et al. Dinner only, cash only. Open 6:30-11 PM. Located next to Quattro Feri on Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2753.
WE HAVE AN 11:00 AM RESERVATION (AND HAVE PRE-PAID) FOR A THREE HOUR WALKING AND BOAT TOUR OF VENICE TODAY. RESERVATION #8846. PRESENT PRINTED EMAIL AS CONFIRMATION UPON ARRIVAL TO REGISTER. 11 AM: Boat; 2 PM: Walking
Meeting point for Venice tour: Entrance to the Royal Gardens on the water front of St. Marks Square. From St. Marks facing the Basilica, turn right and walk towards the open water. At the two giant columns facing the water turn right, and following the line of trees after a 100 metres you will come to the entrance of the Royal Gardens where we will be waiting holding a sign with Original Venice Walk written on it. Large bags are not allowed into the basilica. Please arrive 10 min prior to start of tour. Grand Canal Boat Tour-11am - Original Walk-2pm
--DAY THREE: VENEZIA & FIRENZE (CHRISTMAS EVE)--
Venezia to Firenze, Mon Dec 24 4:43 PM: Train
4:43 PM Train from Venice to Florence
4:43 PM train from Venice to Florence. Arrive in Florence at 7:22 PM. About e80 total for two 1st class tickets. To get to train station in Venice: take vaporetto boat back to Santa Lucia and either board train to Florence there OR at mainland stop.
Don’t forget to have train ticket validated at large yellow machine before boarding, or pay a hefty fine on board.
Arrive at Florence’s Santa Maria Novella station: TAKE TAXI FROM STATION TO PENDINI HOTEL, VIA STROZZI 2.
Firenze, Mon Dec 24 8:00 PM: Hotel
Checkin Pendini Hotel (2 nights)
Category: Hotel
Phone: 055-211-170
Via Strozzi 2
Firenze, Firenze
Luxurious and just e88.00 per night during off season like this. Highly recommended by Steves. In the heart of the city, overlooking Piazza della Repubblica. About $255.00 for two nights. Email: pendini@florenceitaly.net: Barbara.
AVG TEMP Firenze December: 46 degrees. Population: 403,000. This hotel has made a reservation for the Accademia (Michelangelo’s David) for the 26th. We have confirmation email in our papers. They have also made a dinner reservation for us at 13 Gabbi for tonight about 8:00 PM. We have that reservation in our papers, too.
After dinner, walk, explore, for tomorrow: see what restaurants will be open? Visit Ponte Vecchio (old bridge); lock & gift.
Firenze, Mon Dec 24 9:00 PM: Things to Do
Christmas Eve in Florence
Dinner, stroll, midnight mass? The city is lit with thousands of holiday lights, from one end of the town to the other. The "Christmas in Florence" Committee, under the direction of the Contemporanea Progetti, endeavors to create this special sight, beginning at the end of November. The streets, the squares, and the palazzi all take on an incredible holiday glow. It is absolutely breathtaking. DINNER RESERVATION HAS BEEN MADE FOR US AT TRATTORIA 13 GOBBI, VIA DEL POCELLANA 9 RED.
--DAY FOUR: FIRENZE (CHRISTMAS DAY)--
Firenze, Tue Dec 25 12:00 PM: Things to Do
Walk Florence; Explore Anything Open
Call our family and friends and wish all a Merry Christmas!
Includes Ponte Vecchio (famous bridge), Piazza Michelangelo, and Santa Maria del Fiore ("Duomo"). Enjoy Christmas dinner Florentine style! Perhaps Trattoria el Trebbio, half a block off Piazza Santa Maria Novella at Via delle Belle Donne 47, or Trattoria 13 Gobbi at Via del Porcellana 9 red (dressy), or Osteria del Porcellino, Via Val di Lamona 7 red, half a block behind Mercato Nuovo.
--DAY FIVE: FIRENZE & SIENA--
Not sure what to expect here, with many places closed. Should check with hotel and others on the 24th. Likely to be a restful, mellow day. Don’t forget to use an Italian calling card to call home!
Firenze, Wed Dec 26 8:00 AM: Things to Do
Shop, See Florence 8 AM--1:30 PM
Check out of hotel early. Shop, have lunch. This is a national holiday in Italy, Boxing Day, but many larger cities with tourists have shops/sites that remain open. Firenze is noted for Italy's best gelato: beware tourist traps just off square with $10 'deals' on Gelato. Try Gelateria dei Neri (open 11 AM to midnight), 2 blocks east of Palazzo Vecchio at Via dei Neri 20/22 red. Also, Gelateria Carabe' serves granita, Italian ices made with fresh fruit (daily, 9 AM-2 AM).
St. Stephen’s Day, also a holiday, but more things should be open in Florence today. We have a reservation in the morning (see email with papers) for the Acaddemia, to see Michaelangelo’s famous David). Shopping, as well, before heading to Siena. Need to confirm bus location and schedule for bus to Siena. SEE THE MEDICI SITES!
TWO TICKETS RESERVED FOR US FOR 9 AM THIS MORNING FOR ACCADEMIA GALLERY.
Afterwards, take bus to Siena (one hour ride)..
Firenze to Siena, Wed Dec 26 2:10 PM: Bus
2:10 PM Bus to Siena
Bus from Firenze to Siena at 2:10 PM bus on 12/26 (holiday schedule): arrive in Siena by 3:30 PM. In Florence, the bus station is located a block west of the Florence train station. About $17.00 US each.
At Siena station, taxi stand is to your right as you exit. About 8 Euros from station to town/hotel. Or a 20 minute uphill walk with luggage, if adventurous.
Siena, Wed Dec 26 4:00 PM: Hotel
Checkin Chiusarelli Hotel (one night)
Category: Hotel
Phone: 0577-280-562
Viale Curtatone, 15
Siena
Staying here one night. Great location. Recommended by Steves. e125.00 cash including breakfast ($182.00 US) Email: info@chiusarelli.com
AVG TEMP Siena December: 46 degrees. Population is 60,000.
Siena, once a major banking and trade center and a military power along with Florence, Genoa and other Italian city-states, at one time had a larger population than Paris, France. Florence conquered Siena, however, relegating it to a backwater place—which helped preserve it’s culture and architecture, making it, today, the most-preserved of the Mediieval Italian city states. And Palio is held here each spring! Il Campo is recognized by Steves as “the best square in Italy.” Climb the city tower (330 feet, all stairs) for a great view and visit the civic museum, where good civil government and humanism are celebrated (a proud, vibrant republic). The Duomo has tile floors and statues by Michaelangelo and Bernini. Steves says even one night in Siena is magical.
Siena, Wed Dec 26 6:00 PM: Things to Do
Walk, Explore Il Campo
Enjoy the Sienese evening; explore one of the greatest squares in all of Europe. Visit Church of San Domenico. Main drag for shopping is Via Banchi de Sopra.
For dinner, consider Antica Osteria Da Divo (about $50 per person). According to Steves, THE place for a fine, creative, candlelit meal in Siena. The lamb is great. Fresh breads. Located Via Franciosa 29 (facing the baptistery door, take the far right and walk one long curving block to the street. Also consider Nello la Taverna, an artsy restaurant with home-made pasta and lots of vegetarian options. Located a few steps off Il Campo on Via Porrione 28, to the left of City Tower as you're facing it.
--DAY SIX: SIENA & ROMA--
Siena, Thu Dec 27 9:00 AM: Things to Do
Sienna Tower, Palio Film, Duomo Cathedral
Explore remainder of Siena; climb to top of City Tower (about $8 each; open 10 AM-4 PM); see film on Palio (20 minute film, at Cinema Moderno in Piazza Tolomei, two blocks from Il Campo. About $10 for two; buy DVD for $12); tour art in Duomo Cathedral. Consider for lunch (located at the bottom of Il Campo): Ciao cafeteria offers easy self-service, and Spizzico, in the front half oc Ciao, serves quarter pizzas.
Bus from Siena to Roma, Thu Dec 27 4:00 PM: Bus
4:00 PM SENA Bus from Siena to Roma
Category: Transportation (3 hour ride via coach bus)
Bus from Siena to Roma: 4:00 PM bus on 12/27: arrive in Roma near Tibertina Metro Station by 7:05 PM. About $30.00 US each. Need Metro to Piazza Repubblica stop. Follow directions below. Or taxi.
3 hour busride from Siena to Rome. Find SENA ticket agency in Siena, and purchase tickets. About $20 euros each.
Roma, Thu Dec 27 7:30 PM: Hotel
Checkin Residenza Cellini (3 nights)
Category: Hotel
Phone: 06-4782-5204
Via Modena 5
Roma
Recommended by Steves. Located in east Rome, at the Piazza Repubblica. Leave metro train at the Piazza Repubblica stop. Easy access to trains for sites throughout the city. e170.00 per night, cash, for three nights (includes off-season discount): e510 ($740.00 US). Email: residenzacellini@tin.it: Barbara, Gaetano, and Donato.
Regarding Roma’s taxis: hail from taxi stands, only (you’ll see signs on the street). Restaurants also will call for you when you request your check (Il conto, per favore = check please), but the taxi meter starts running when the call is received, not when you enter the car. Upon entering a taxi, the cost on the meter at the start should be e2.50.
Our hotel—Residenza Cellini—is at the same metro stop as the Baths of Diocletian.
Notes:
AVG TEMP Roma December: 49 degrees. Population: 2.75 million.
Roma, Thu Dec 27 8:30 PM: Things to Do
Our First Night in Rome
Campo de' Fiori; Trevi Fountain
After check-in, take taxi or metro to dinner at Campo de' Fiori and walk to Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. See Steves' recommended night walk across Rome on page 570. A mile-long walk through some of the best of Roman sights and nightlife.
Dinner at Ristorante Pizzeria Sacro e Profano (a block off Via del Tritone at Via dei Maroniti 29), near the Trevi Fountain OR dinner at Ristorante la Carbonara, at Campo de' Fiori 23. Both highly recommended.Take taxi or metro back to hotel and collapse!
--DAY SEVEN: ROMA--
Roma, Fri Dec 28 9:00 AM: Things to Do
Ancient Rome
Today we’ll tour the Colosseum (one hour tour in English about $3.50 each), followed by the Forum, then over Capitol Hill to the Pantheon, including some pizza on the go for lunch. What Steves calls The Caesar Shuffle. Also explore Piazza Venezia & Piazza Navona (Christmas Market there).
Roma, Fri Dec 28 7:00 PM: Things to Do
Night: Piazza del Popolo Stroll
See page 568 for recommended twilight/evening stroll along with hundreds of locals who participate in this pasagiatta each evening all across Italy, regardless of weather. Highly recommended by Steves.
Dinner at Ristorante il Gabriello near the Spanish steps (end of the 'stroll')?
--DAY EIGHT: ROMA--
Roma, Sat Dec 29 8:00 AM
Breakfast at the hotel, but get out early via Metro for the Vatican Museum (be there by 9:00 AM or wait forever to get in). Tour the Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel, then to St. Peter’s Basilica (climb the duomo) & St. Peter’s Square with Obelisk. Shopping, then a siesta at the hotel before dinner.
Tonight dinner near Piazza de Repubblica (where our hotel is located) before packing. Near the hotel, perhaps Ristorante di Giovanni (Via Antonio Salandra 1) or Ristorante del Giglio (Via Torino 137). Or squeeze in another visit to a major square we missed.
--FLIGHT: ROMA TO CHICAGO--
Roma to Chicago, Sun Dec 30 8:30 AM: Flight to Chicago
8:25 AM Flight Home
Depart Rome airport on Sunday, December 30th on Alitalia Flight 1024 to Milan, Italy at 8:25 AM. Arrive Milan at 9:45 AM. Short layover. Depart Milan at 10:20 AM on Alitalia Flight 626 bound for Chicago. Arrive Chicago O'Hare at 1:35 PM Chicago-time on Sunday, December 30th. Taxi cab home. Yahoo trip id number is 7084 8879 7375. In Rome, use check in code KMMVBV for checkin and boarding pass.
Much longer trip home than the direct nine-hour flight in, in part due to the pesky tradewinds, but also due to a layover in Milan where we switch planes. Arrange limo from hotel to airport (about 60 euros). Leave hotel by 6:30 AM.
Chicago, IL USA Sun Dec 30 1:35 PM: Flight
Arrive Chicago O'Hare 1:35 PM
Arrive Chicago O'Hare by 1:35 PM on Sunday, December 30th, to ring in 2008!
Estimated Total Costs as of 26 November 2007
-Airfare: $2,274.00 US on AlItalia (Chicago to Milano; Roma to Chicago)
-Lodging: (8 nights: 2 Venezia; 2 Firenze; 1 Siena; 3 Roma): (about e1,014) $1,470.00*
-Transportation (trains, vapparetto, buses, taxis): (e350) $500.00
-Per Diem (meals, admission fees, etc.; not including lodging): e160,00 x 8 = (e1,311) appx $1,900.00
ESTIMATED TOTAL COST: $7,000.00 US (including airfare)
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