19 January 2008

Why Italy? Gio's Story

Ciao! I'm Gio (errr, John Novick in the states), your host at Molto Gentile, Italia. While my ethnic background is as varied as a grande antipasto--including Irish, Italian, English, Russian, and German roots--my Italian heritage lies in Abruzzo, the region due west of Lazio (Lazio is where Roma is located). Although Abruzzo is about the same latitude as Lazio, the region is considered, officially, part of southern Italy, since it was once part of the Kingdom of Two Sicilies, prior to Italian unification in 1861.

In many ways Italy is a young nation, despite its ancient ruins and rich cultural legacy that date back thousands of years. While America declared itself a unified nation in the summer of 1776, Italy only emerged as a single political entity 85 years later, as America was embarking on its bloody Civil War. Just as Americans once did, Italians identify more with their local areas than with any clear national identity. Each Italian region offers a distinct history and culture, and Italians think of themselves as Milanese or Florentine or Venetian or Roman or Sicilian first, and Italian second. This cultural diversity is one reason why visiting Italy is such an adventure, and so rewarding an experience: every locale offers something new to the independent traveler (one or more people traveling together, sans an organized tour group) seeking to connect with the local people.

My maternal grandmother, Elizabeth Zappacosta (Durkin), was born and raised in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, CANADA, before meeting an American GI from Chicago named Jim Durkin stationed in the Sault during World War II, marrying him, and moving to Chicago. Nana's parents--the Zappacostas and the Taluccis--came to Canada directly from Italy, like so many Italians, seeking an escape from the poverty of the old country, especially in the south. My wife's Italian roots lie even further south, in Calabria, with the Angotti family. Her paternal grandfather, Frank, came to the United States from a small mountain town in Calabria, and settled on Chicago's south side. Dana's dad, Ken, still speaks a considerable amount of Italian (Calabrese dialect), and he and his wife Betty do much to keep the Italian culture alive for their family--their homemade ravioli trades at a higher rate than gold in la familia. And Dana's brother Ken makes his own wine, just like in the old country--and now he even owns a few goats, which every self-respecting Italian from the south would understand!

When we visit Italy as American tourists, it sometimes feels like we're going home--but to a home we hardly know, and only now are beginning to understand. We think of our parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents, and somehow the connection makes us feel good. Who says you can't go home? (asks Italian-American Bon Jovi, by-the-by).

As our Amalfi Coast tour guide Tony once said, ITALIA IS BENE PER TI, that is, ITALY IS GOOD FOR YOU. Look beyond the picturesque, the stereotypes, and take it all in. Sip a cappuccino in the early morning, people watch at a busy piazza, and join the evening passagiatta before a delicious meal. Explore art, history, architecture, music, and the great cultural diversity all around you. Seek out locals for conversation. Don't shy away from the frustrating aspects of Italy, either, but ask why...why is poverty so rampant in the south? why is corruption and organized crime endemic? why do Italians have to drive like that? why is anti-immigrant hatred and xenophobia growing? why can't Italians form a proper line? why do some not use personal hygiene products?

Ponder these questions, but also do all of the things you just don't make time for at home that can make you glad to be alive and feel new, again. Live large through small but rich comforts, as the Italians have learned to do through centuries of chaos, poverty, political instability, and even foreign rule. And draw pleasure even from the planning of each new trip, each new Italian phrase mastered. Italy will reward your time, effort, and investment a thousand times over. Thanks for visiting--and here's hoping you can visit Italia in person really soon!

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