York, England; then Edinburgh, Stirling, Musselburgh, Inverness, Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, Isle of Skye and Pitlochry in Scotland; end in London, England
Wednesday 20 June – Monday 2 July 2012
OVERVIEW
- Fly Chicago to London, England (0 stop), 20-6 (Wed), departing O’Hare at 6:00 PM on Virgin Atlantic Airways Flight VS40, arriving at London-Heathrow at 8:00 AM on Thu, an 8 hr 0 min flight
- Train London-Heathrow to York, England, Take Tube from Terminal 3 (Piccadilly Line toward Cockfosters or Arnos Grove) to King’s Cross/St. Pancras Station (about 1 hour, 0 changes); at King’s Cross, take 10:30 or 11:00 AM train to York (about 2 hours on East Coast line, 0 changes); arrive in York between 12:30 and 1:00 PM, 21-6 (Thu)
- 2 nights York, England, 21-6 (Thu) & 22-6 (Fri)
- Train York to Edinburgh, Scotland (2 hr 35 min, 0 changes), departing York at 11:32 AM, arriving in Edinburgh at 2:07 PM on 23-6 (Sat)
- 3 nights Edinburgh with Day Trip to Stirling Castle Mon & Breakfast in Musselburgh Tue, 23-6 (Sat), 24-6 (Sun) & 25-6 (Mon)
- Train Edinburgh to Inverness (3 hr 29 min), departing Edinburgh at 1:35 PM, arriving in Inverness at 5:04 PM on 26-6 (Tue)
- 3 nights Inverness with Guided Day Trips on Wed to Loch Ness & Thu to Isle of Skye , 26-6 (Tue), 27-6 (Wed) & 28-6 (Thu)
- Train Inverness to Pitlochry (1 hr 36 min, 0 changes), departing Inverness at 10:45 AM, arriving in Pitlochry at 12:21 PM on 29-6 (Fri)
- 1 night Pitlochry, 29-6 (Fri)
- Train Pitlochry, Scotland to London, England, (6 hrs 34 min, 0 changes), departing Pitlochry at 8:16 AM, arriving at London-King’s Cross Station at 2:55 PM, 30-6 (Sat)
- 2 Nights London, 30-6 (Sat) & 1-7 (Sun)
- Fly London, England to Chicago O’Hare (0 stop), 2-7 (Mon), departing London-Heathrow at 11:00 AM on Virgin Atlantic Airways Flight VS39, arriving in Chicago on Monday 2-7 at 1:55 PM, an 8 hr 55 min flight
DAY ONE (THU 21): ARRIVE AT LONDON-HEATHROW; TRAIN TO YORK
Arrive in London, England; Transfer to York
We’ll arrive at Heathrow Airport at 8:00 AM on Thursday and
after clearing customs take the Tube from Terminal 3 (Piccadilly Line toward
Cockfosters or Arnos Grove) to King’s Cross/St. Pancras Station (about 1 hour,
0 changes)
We have already purchased Oyster Cards for the Tube, buses
& trams in London, with £20 pre-loaded on each card (mailed to us in
Chicago pre-trip). If we need more money on the cards, we can add it at any
station during our two-night stay in town next week.
At King’s Cross, we’ll take the 10:30 or 11:00 AM East Coast
Line train to York (about 2 hours on East Coast line, 0 changes), arriving in
York between 12:30 and 1:00 PM.
We have already purchased a 3-day Adult BritRail Flexipass
for 2 people (and given the number and length of rides on this trip, we’ll
splurge for 1st Class) at http://www.visitbritainshop.com/usa/travel-transport/product/britrail-gb-flexi-pass.html.
Because we ordered before April 12th, we received an additional day free (a
total of 4 days for the price of 3). The cost in US dollars was $763, including
shipping .The ride from London to York is Day 1; York to Edinburgh will be Day
2; Edinburgh to Inverness Day 3; we’ll pay cash for the short ride from
Inverness to Pitlochry; and Day 4 will be the long journey from Pitlochry back
to London.
In Britain, seat reservations are free to make at any
station and are a good idea for weekends.
Arrival in York; Check-in Abbey Guest House
Upon arrival at York station, we’ll head to the nearby Abbey
Guest House, where we’ve reserved a four-poster room with a river view for 2
nights.
To get to Abbey Guest House from York station: Come out of
the main entrance to York Railway Station and walk left towards the city
centre. Cross Leeman Road and carry on walking past the bus stop and under the
city wall. Bear left and walk across Lendal Bridge. Just as you get opposite Pizza Express there is a small set
of stone steps which leads down to your left – walk down the steps. At the
bottom of the steps walk straight ahead along the riverside on Dame Judi Dench
walk, past the Museum Gardens on your right. Continue on to the end of the row
of houses on the river side – Abbey Guest House is the last house in the row.
If you go under the railway bridge then you have gone too far.
Abbey Guest House, 13/14 Earlsborough Terrace Marygate; phone is 01904 627782; e-mail is
info@abbeyghyork.co.uk; website is
http://www.abbeyghyork.co.uk/index.html. We’ve reserved a four-poster room in
the front of the house with en suite bath/shower, breakfast, Wi-Fi and view of
the River Ouse for 2 nights (21 & 22 June) at a cost of £83 per night:
TOTAL COST OF £166.
NOTE: When we check-in, we should ask the B&B to make a
9 PM dinner reservation at the Bay Horse for us for tomorrow evening.
Check-In; Lunch, Shopping, Shambles; York Minster; Siesta
After getting settled in our hotel at about 1:30 PM, we’ll
checkout the city center, grab lunch, and do some strolling and shopping, being
certain to visit the atmospheric old butcher’s quarter with medieval buildings,
a neighborhood called The Shambles. For lunch, RS recommends St. Williams’
Restaurant near Minster (see map p. 472), while TA rates Mason’s Bar &
Bistro (13 Fossgate) highly for lunch.
Then we’ll visit York Minster (cost is £9.00 each, last
entry is 5:00 PM), a wonderful Gothic church and the pride of York—one of
England’s most famous churches. After the Minster (probably around 5:00 PM), we’ll take a
late afternoon siesta back at the B&B.
Dinner, River Ouse Cruise
At about 7:15 PM, we’ll have dinner: one recommended casual
spot is Ask Italian Restaurant, located in the Grand Assembly Rooms, Blake
Street (askcentral.co.uk; open until 10:00 PM). Café Concerto is recommended
by RS, too (also open until 10:00 PM, facing the Minster, 21 High Petergate;
reservation might be needed).
After dinner, at about 8:45 PM, we’ll head to King's Staith
Landing (see map p.453 RS) for the 70-minute
narrated floodlit evening cruise, departing at 9:15 PM. Cost will be about
£9.50 each (http://www.yorkboat.co.uk).
DAY TWO (FRI 22): YORK
Castle Museum; Double-Decker City Bus Tour
We’ll rise about 7:45 AM this morning, enjoy breakfast, and
then proceed to the York Castle Museum for its opening at 9:30 AM (to avoid
long lines; cost is £8.50 each).
York Castle Museum is one of Britain's leading museums of everyday life. It shows how people used to live by displaying thousands of household objects and by recreating rooms, shops, streets - and even prison cells. It is best known for its recreated Victorian street, Kirkgate, which combines real shop fittings and stock with modern sound and light effects, to evoke an atmosphere of Victorian Britain.
After the museum (done by about 10:45 AM), we’ll walk toward
Exhibition Square, checking out shops as we go, arriving in time for the 12:00
PM double-decker bus tour by City Sightseeing (we want Route B, the longer one
hour tour, with a live guide; will run about $20.00 US, each; we most likely
pay the driver cash).
Lunch; Free-Time Options
After the bus tour concludes around 1:00 PM, we’ll grab
lunch and enjoy some free time. Options include shopping, taking a siesta at
the hotel, visiting the Yorkshire Museum (a top-notch archeological museum with
authentic Viking artifacts close to our lodging (admission is £7.50; open until
5:00 PM; http://www.yorkshiremuseum.org.uk/Page/Index.aspx), and strolling
along the River Ouse (there is a mile-long tree-lined lane created in the
1730s). For a one-hour walk, cross the Millennium Bridge from the riverwalk and
pass through Rowntree Park, eventually come back into town.
Siesta; Evening Walking Tour: Dinner at The Bay Horse
After a siesta, we’ll proceed to Exhibition Square (across
from the TI, just north of our hotel; see map p. 453) for the 6:45 PM free
two-hour walking tour with a trained volunteer guide (note that they sometimes
run long, and while you can leave any time, let them know first so they don’t
think they’ve lost you).
After the tour (at about 8:45 PM), we’ll visit The Bay
Horse, a very highly rated restaurant on Trip Advisor (located next to the
museum gardens and river), for our 9:00 PM reservations. We’ll book our
reservation online before the trip at http://www.bayhorsemarygate.co.uk.
Then we’ll call it a night, and prepare for our morning
departure by train for Edinburgh, Scotland.
DAY THREE (SAT 23): TRAIN YORK TO EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND
Checkout of Abbey; Train to Edinburgh
We’ll checkout of the hotel after breakfast (by 9:15 AM) and
proceed to the train station for the 10:00 AM train to Edinburgh, Scotland (2
hr 35 min, 0 changes), arriving in Edinburgh (Waverley Station) at 12:35 PM.
This is Day 2 on our 4-Day Britrail Pass.
Arrive in Edinburgh; Walk to Jury’s Inn (5 min from station)
We’ll arrive at Waverley Station at about 12:30 PM. To get
to our hotel (Jurys’ Inn-Edinburgh) from Waverley, we’ll walk 1/8 of a mile,
per these directions:
It's a 5 minute walk from the station to the hotel. Exit via
Market Street, cross the road onto Jeffrey Street and the hotel is 100 yards up
on the right-hand side.
Booking Confirmation Details
Thank you for booking Jurys Inn Edinburgh, we hope you will
have a pleasant stay. Your confirmation number is 3536886
Details of your Reservation are as follows:
Arrival Date: 23
June 2012
Departure Date: 26
June 2012
Number of Rooms: 1
Adults Per room: 2
Rate Description: Room
Only Rate - Reserve Online - Book with total flexibility!
Room Description: Spacious Double Room - Suitable for 2 adults
Superior upgrade includes: Internet access (Wifi in public
areas), complimentary mineral water & biscuits, iron and ironing board,
newspaper, 10 lunch/dinner discount, early check-in
Total Cost: 495.00GBP
Rate Breakdown (per room) 165.00GBP from 23 June 2012
Tax Information: Tax
Included VAT@20 PCT
Cancellation policy: CANCEL
BY 12AM 23-JUN-12
Check-in Time: 14:00
Check-out Time: 12:00
Hotel Address: Jurys
Inn Edinburgh Hotel, 43 Jeffrey Street Edinburgh
EH1 1DH Scotland
Hotel Telephone: +44
131 200 3300 Hotel Fax: +44 131 200 0400
Cancellations can be made up until 2pm on the day of
arrival. If you fail to cancel your booking before this deadline your credit
card will be charged for the first night of your stay.
NOTE: We did not purchase the generic breakfast with our
room, and will, instead, have breakfast at the Costa Coffee bar in the hotel or
a local bakery or market.
Get Settled; Royal Mile; Edinburgh Castle; Siesta
After checking-in and getting settled (by about 1:30 PM),
we’ll stop for a bite to eat while walking the Royal Mile (shops, etc.) to
Edinburgh Castle for the tour (entry is £14 each; open until 6:00 PM, but last
entry at 5:15 PM). The guided tour of the castle (free with admission) runs
about 20 minutes.
Then we’ll walk back down the Royal Mile, stopping anywhere
we like, ultimately ending up back at the hotel, where we’ll enjoy a siesta for
a few hours.
Dinner at World’s End Pub; Folk Music Afterward at Tass Pub
– Both on Royal Mile
After our siesta, we’ll head out for dinner at 7:00 PM, at
World’s End Pub, 4 High Street on the Royal Mile (see map p. 30). After dinner,
we’ll cross the street to Tass Pub (#1 High Street), where live traditional
music begins nightly after 9:00 PM, with no cover.
DAY FOUR (SUN 24): EDINBURGH
Holyrood House Castle; Double-Decker Bus Tour; Jenners’
Department Store; National Museum
After breakfast we’ll visit the nearby Palace of Holyrood
House, right near our hotel, when it opens at 9:30 AM. Cost is £10.75 each with
audio guide.
Founded as a monastery in 1128, the Palace of Holyroodhouse
in Edinburgh is The Queen's official residence in Scotland. Situated at the end
of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closely associated with
Scotland's turbulent past, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived here
between 1561 and 1567. Successive kings and queens have made the Palace of
Holyroodhouse the premier royal residence in Scotland.
Today, the Palace is the setting for State ceremonies and
official entertaining. During The Queen's Holyrood week, which usually runs
from the end of June to the beginning of July, Her Majesty carries out a wide
range of official engagements in Scotland.
Then we’ll stroll to Waverley Bridge (the old town end of
the bridge; see map p. 19 for directions), stopping in any shops we like along
the way, to take the Mac Tours Edinburgh Tour via ‘vintage’ double-decker bus
(green buses, £12 each for 24 hour ticket). We’ll ride through the complete
one-hour tour, knowing we can use our tickets all day long for transport if
desired.
Stops include New Town, St. Andrew Square, Caledonian Hotel,
Usher Hall/Lyceum Theatre, Old Town, Lawnmarket (for Castle), Greyfriars Bobby,
McEwan Hall, National Museum of Scotland, North Bridge, Calton Hill, Palace of
Holyroodhouse, Our Dynamic Earth, Scottish Parliament, Canongate.
After the tour, we’ll grab lunch (consider Piemaker, 100
yards off the Royal Mile at South Bridge, featuring meat pies and delicious
homemade pastries; see p. 61 RS) before doing some shopping (including House of
Fraser Jenners department store at 48 Princess Street, open until 6:00 PM) and
visiting the National Museum of Scotland. The museum is located two long blocks
south of the Royal Mile from St. Giles Cathedral; www.nms.ac.uk; no entry fee;
closes at 5:00 PM). We’ll visit the museum from about 3:30 PM until closing.
Then we’ll take a siesta back at the B&B.
Dinner in the Georgian New Town at Henderson’s Bistro;
Stroll New Town
At about 7:00 PM, we’ll head-out for dinner, dining tonight
in Edinburgh’s Georgian New Town (dating from a 1776 plan; see p. 43 in RS) at
a bistro featuring fresh local ingredients: Henderson’s Bistro, located at 25c
Thistle Street (open until 8:30 PM on Sundays). Note that Henderson’s
Restaurant, also on site, is closed on Sundays, but the Bistro is open. Dinner
menu features soups, wraps, hummus, salads, bruschetta, risotto, crepes &
more. We have already reserved a table for 7:30 PM online at
http://www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk/bistro.php. Recommended by RS and TA.
Then we’ll checkout the New Town before calling it a night.
DAY FIVE (MON 25): SLEEP IN; DAY TRIP TO STIRLING; DORIC
SCOTTISH RESTAURANT
We’ll enjoy a relaxed start this morning and sleep in before taking the 11:32 AM train from Waverley Station to Stirling (53 min, 0 changes; £15.40 each, return trip), arriving in Stirling at 12:25 PM. Then we’ll take a taxi from the rank outside the station to Stirling Castle (open 9:30 AM-6:00 PM; £13 each, including guided tour). Taxi will run about £5. We should arrive in time for the 1:00 PM tour (45 minutes), departing from the well outside the Fort Major’s House. We’ll spend about 90 minutes exploring the castle and taking photos of the amazing views before taking a taxi back to the city center for lunch and some shopping.
We’ll return to Edinburgh by the 5:06 PM or 5:36 PM train (1 hour ride back to Edinburgh Waverley), then take a siesta.
At about 7:30 PM we’ll check-out the Royal Mile at night for the last time, and grab a bite to eat at The Doric, a highly-rated (Trip Advisor) Scottish restaurant located on the Royal Mile at 15/16 Market Street (a gastro-pub, with a restaurant on the first floor and a wine bar above). Menus available at http://www.edinburghdj.co.uk/the-doric/a_la_carte_bar_menu.pdf. We have an 8:00 PM reservation in the restaurant (not the wine bar), made in advance of our trip.
Then we’ll return home to pack and get organized for our departure tomorrow morning for Inverness in the Scottish Highlands.
DAY SIX (TUE 26): BREAKFAST IN MUSSELBURGH; DEPART EDINBURGH (TRAIN TO INVERNESS)
Checkout of Hotel; Late Breakfast & Shopping in Nearby
Coastal Village of Musselburgh; Train to Inverness
We’ll checkout this morning by 9:30 AM and proceed with our
bags to Waverley Station. At Waverley, we’ll leave our big bags with the left
luggage office (located at platform 19; £7 per bag) and purchase return tickets
for the 10:13 AM train to the nearby coastal village of Musselburgh (a 6 minute
commuter train ride; apprx £8.80 total return trip, for two), arriving at 10:19
AM. We’ll enjoy a few hours exploring the town center (a scenic beach, shopping
district, historic sites, etc), have a leisurely breakfast, and then return to
Edinburgh via the 12:52 PM train OR taxi (about £12).
MUSSELBURGH
Musselburgh is located on the south shore of the Firth of
Forth in Scotland at the mouth of the River Esk, approximately 403 miles north
of London and 6 miles east of Edinburgh.
The town has a population of around 22,000. Administratively
it is within the unitary council region of East Lothian which covers an area of
approximately 679 sq kms and which has a population of around 90,000.
The largest town in East Lothian on the eastern outskirts of
Edinburgh, it is a good base from which to explore the beautiful coastline
which stretches around to Dunbar. Visitor attractions here include one of the
busiest racecourses in Scotland, for both National Hunt and Flat meetings.
There are some notable historic sites, including a 13th century stone bridge
across the Esk which was used by Edward II in his retreat from the Battle of
Bannockburn in 1314, and The Tolbooth which was built around 1590. At low tide
the sea retreats nearly a mile to expose a sandy beach with scattered shingle.
The town's history dates from the time of the Roman invasion
of Scotland in 80AD. The Romans built a fort here and the bridge which they
constructed across the River Esk lasted for many centuries before it was
rebuilt, on the original Roman foundations, in the 13th century. It was created
a burgh of barony around 1315, then became a burgh of regality in 1562, and in
1632 it was prevented from being made a royal burgh by Edinburgh burgesses who
wanted to maintain control over the area's trade. During the Middle Ages the
town experienced great turbulence, in the conflicts between Scotland and
England, and was almost completely destroyed by English forces in 1544 and
again in 1547.
Historically the town's economy was based upon its mussel
industry and fishing but, today the majority of the workforce are employed in
the retail, health, public administration, financial services, real estate, and
other service sectors including tourism. Many residents also commute to work in
Edinburgh.
The name Musselburgh, or 'mussel town', derives from its history
connected to development of mussel beds at the mouth of the River Esk.
The town's motto is 'Honesty' which dates back to 1332. The Coat of Arms for Musselburgh comprises
three mussels, referring to the origins of the burgh, and three anchors which
refer to the community's fishing traditions.
Collect Bags; Train to Inverness in the Highlands
Upon our return to Edinburgh at about 1:00 PM, we’ll collect
our bags from left luggage and board the 1:35 PM train to Inverness, arriving
at 5:04 PM (3 hours, 29 minutes, 0 stops). This is Day 3 of our 4-Day Britrail
Pass.
Arrive in Inverness; Transfer to Bluebell House via Walk (10
min) or Taxi; Check-In Early
We’ll arrive at Inverness Station at 5:00 PM. To get to our
B&B (Bluebell House) from the station, we’ll walk about 10 minutes or taxi.
At the Bluebell House (owned and managed by Margaret &
Neil Hart) we’ve reserved a king four-poster room with en suite bath, breakfast
and free Wi-Fi for 3 nights at a total cost of £270. It’s located in a quiet residential
neighborhood just 10 minutes’ walk to the center of town. Bluebell House, 31
Kenneth Street; Phone is 44 (0)1463238201. Email is info@bluebell-house.com;
http://www.bluebell-house.com/index.htm.
We will arrange for a late check-in at 8:30 PM.
After getting settled at the Bluebell, we’ll stroll the city
center (see RS page p. 156 for map) before grabbing a bite and taking in the
8:30 PM folk show called The Scottish Showtime Experience
(http://www.nessie.org.uk; about £12.50 each; two hours); located next to the
bus station at Spectrum Centre Theatre on Marget Street. We’ll buy tickets at
the door at about 8:00 PM. After the show, we’ll get a good night’s sleep.
DAY SEVEN (WED 27): INVERNESS; GUIDED EXCURSION TO LOCH NESS
& URQUHART CASTLE
Sleep In; Explore Inverness; Half-Day Trip to Loch Ness
& Urquhart Castle
We’ll sleep in today (but I think the latest we can come to
breakfast is 8:30 AM? Have to check upon arrival). Then we’ll spend a few hours
checking out the town (not really tourist destination itself). RS says, “Its
charm is its normalcy…a taste of the urban Highlands,” and that it serves as a
great base for day trips into the countryside (thus, serving our purpose).
Then, by 2:00 PM we’ll check-in for the 2:15 PM Scottish
Tours day trip called Loch Ness Temptation, including a coach tour along the
banks of Loch Ness, a 30-minute cruise on Loch Ness, and a visit to nearby
Urquhart Castle (a 3 hour excursion, returning to town at 5:00 PM; £23 each; we
booked in advance of our trip at http://www.scottishtours.co.uk/tourpage.asp?tourtype=0&id=320&resid=&departfrom=3).
We have our confirmation email among our papers to show at the start of the
tour. The tour departs from Platform 7 at Inverness Bus Station (see map p.
156).
Loch Ness is known World-wide as the home of “Nessie”, the
Loch Ness Monster. But there is so much more to Loch Ness than just monster
tales! If time is precious then this is the best way to experience the Loch. On
this well-planned tour you will discover sleepy villages, wonderful loch-side
vistas and one of Scotland’s most famous castles.
From the centre of Inverness you will travel by luxury mini-coach along the banks of the Caledonian Canal to the Bona Narrows. It was here that St Columba is said to have come face to face with “Nessie” in 565AD!
Soon the canal broadens to become Loch Ness and we meander our way enjoying wonderful views at every turn. At the Clansman Visitor Centre a cruiser awaits to take us for a 30 minute cruise on Loch Ness. Here we will sail the deepest waters of the loch which is where Nessie has been seen the most – was that a wave or a fin?
Urquhart Castle is strategically located on a rocky promontory sticking out into the deepest part of Loch Ness. Whoever held this castle controlled the Great Glen and as such it changed hands on numerous occasions. The MacDonalds and the Grants held Urquhart as did the English for a period. It was deliberately blown up in 1691 and today the atmospheric ruins are ours to discover. There are great views over Urquhart Bay to savour and you can learn more about the castle at the award-winning audio-visual presentation.
All too soon it’s time to board your coach from the return
journey to Inverness.
Upon our return to town, we’ll enjoy a siesta back at the B&B.
Later this evening, we’ll take a night-time stroll and have dinner. See ps. 161-63 in RS guide for dinner ideas in town. We could simply chill tonight, or if game, could take the cheesy “Crime & Punishment Walking Tour” by Happy Tours, meeting on the steps of the TI at either 7:00 PM or 8:30 PM (£10 each; http://happy-tours.biz).
DAY EIGHT (THU 28): GUIDED DAY TRIP TO ISLE OF SKYE
After breakfast we’ll head back to the bus station (Platform
7, again) by 9:15 AM for the 9:30 AM day trip to the scenic Isle of Skye
offered by Scottish Tours, including the Black Isle, Achnasheen, Strome Ferry,
Kyle of Lochalsh, Isle of Skye, Cuillin Hills, Beach-combing, Eilean Donan
Castle, The Five Sisters, and Invermoriston (a 9 hr 45 min excursion, returning
to town at 7:15 PM; £44 each; we booked in advance of our trip at
http://www.scottishtours.co.uk/tourpage.asp?tourtype=0&id=93&resid=&departfrom=3).
We should bring the confirmation email from our papers to show when we check-in
for the tour.
The Isle of Skye is famed the world over for its dramatic
mountain scenery and picturesque seascapes. On this wonderful tour we’ll
experience the very best of the Magical Isle.
We start our day together by driving along the banks of Loch Ness - keep a careful watch, just in case you know who makes an appearance! We'll stop in the little village of Invermoriston to see the delightful ruined bridge which was designed by Thomas Telford, who constructed the Caledonian Canal. Next we travel through pretty Glen Moriston and Glen Shiel, scene of the 1719 battle, were we will see the "Five Sisters”, a range of five mountains that dominate the surrounding landscape.
We’ll make a stop so that you can visit Eilean Donan Castle,
perched on its island at the head of Loch Duich. You will marvel at the views
from this most picturesque of castles.
Soon we cross "over the sea to Skye” by way of the road bridge and head for Broadford, where there is a stop for lunch. Next we take the stunningly beautiful road through Glen Suardal. The pretty Red Cuillin Hills provide a pleasant start to our journey. As we reach the little village of Torrin, the bulk of Bla Bhein (Blanven) comes in to view. Considered by many to be Scotland’s prettiest mountain it provides breathtaking views.
Soon we cross "over the sea to Skye” by way of the road bridge and head for Broadford, where there is a stop for lunch. Next we take the stunningly beautiful road through Glen Suardal. The pretty Red Cuillin Hills provide a pleasant start to our journey. As we reach the little village of Torrin, the bulk of Bla Bhein (Blanven) comes in to view. Considered by many to be Scotland’s prettiest mountain it provides breathtaking views.
The road descends to hug the banks of Loch Slappin and here we stop to enjoy some beach combing. The next part of our journey involves a steep climb over Strathaird to reach the little community of Elgol beyond. We’ll have an extended stop in Elgol where there are superb views of the Black Cuillin Hills to enjoy. They rise majestically on the opposite banks of Loch Scavaig. If the weather is kind to us there are also stunning seascapes towards Rum and the other Small Isles.
As we cross the Skye Bridge, heading for the mainland, look
out for the little island of Eilean
Ban. The author, Gavin Maxwell, lived in
the lighthouse keepers cottage for a while. He is most famous for writing
"Ring of Bright Water” - a book that vividly described living with a
family of otters.
From Kyle of Lochalsh we continue our journey through
picturesque Glen Carron to reach the lonely village of Achnasheen, our final
stop of the day. The final part of our journey takes us to Garve then on
through the Black Isle. There are fabulous views over the Moray Firth to savour
as we reach Inverness by way of the Kessock Bridge.
Upon our return to town, we’ll pack and prepare for our morning
departure to Pitlochry, grab a sandwich, and take a final look around Inverness
before getting some sleep.
DAY NINE (FRI 29): TRAIN INVERNESS TO PITLOCHRY; PITLOCHRY
We’ll check-out of the Bluebird this morning, and take the
10:45 AM train to Pitlochry, as we begin to make our way back toward England (1
hr 36 minutes, 0 changes; costing about £21.60 for two of us; we won’t use our
rail passes for this leg). We’ll arrive in charming little Pitlochry
(population 2,500) at 12:21 PM, explore the town, and sleep one night before
continuing to move south.
Check-In Buttonboss Lodge
Buttonboss Lodge is ideally located on Pitlochry's main
street, Atholl Road, yet set in its own lovely grounds. Opposite the TI, the shops and restaurants are only a short
walk away, and Pitlochry Dam and Fish Ladder (and the famous Pitlochry Festival
Theatre) are well within walking distance. The Lodge is 5 minutes away from the
bus stop and train station, at 25 Atholl Road (Tel-:01796 472065;
www.buttonbosslodge.co.uk; info@buttonbosslodge.co.uk). We’ve reserved a double
room with bath/shower and breakfast in the morning for the rate of £65.
After check-in, we’ll stroll the town’s main street (Atholl
Road), shop, and have a bite. At 3:15 PM, we’ll depart via hired car (arranged
through our B&B in advance of the trip) three miles outside of town to
Edradour Distllery, the smallest in Scotland, making whiskey with the least
amount of machinery possible. We’ll arrive in plenty of time for a one-hour
tour (costs £5 each; closes at 5:00 PM):
http://www.edradour.co.uk/placeframe.html.
Upon our return to the B&B shortly after 5:00 PM, we’ll
enjoy an early evening siesta. Afterwards, we’ll have a light dinner and take a
walk to see the salmon ladder alongside the town’s lazy river (10 minutes from
town). Tonight can be a slow, relaxing night before our long journey to London
town in the morning.
If we are up for something, there is a production of Little
Shop of Horrors playing at 8:00 PM tonight in town.
DAY TEN (SAT 30): TRAIN PITLOCHRY TO LONDON; LONDON; RONNIE WOOD & FRIENDS CONCERT AT
BLUESFEST
Train South to London Town
We’ll have breakfast, checkout of the B&B, and take the
9:23 AM train from Pitlochry to London, England (settling in for a long,
relaxing journey, 6 hrs 34 min, 0 changes), arriving at London-King’s Cross
Station at 3:57 PM. This is Day 4 (the final day) on our Britrail Pass.
Arrival at King’s Cross Station, London; Check-In Base2Stay
Hotel in Kensington
We’ll arrive at King’s Cross at 4:00 PM, and take a black
cab to our hotel, Base2Stay Hotel, located at 25 Courtfield Gardens, South
Kensington. We could also take the Tube if we like (King’s Cross Underground
station to Earl’s Court station via Picadilly Line (Blue): a 20 minute journey.
Our Oyster Cards are already pre-loaded. When exiting Earls Court tube station,
we should follow signs for Earls Court Road to reach our hotel.
Note that we are on our own for breakfast at this hotel.
Below is your reservation and confirmation information:
Reservation Information
Confirmation Number: 86721320
Status: CONFIRMED
Check In: 30-06-2012
Guest Name: MR John
Novick Jr Check Out: 02-07-2012
Originally Reserved On: 13-02-2012
01:51:51 AM
Property: base2stay kensington
Modified On: 13-02-2012
01:51:51 AM
Address: 25 Courtfield Gardens Kensington
Number of Nights: 2
Number of Nights: 2
Number of Rooms: 1
Telephone: +44
(0) 845 262 8000 or +44 (0) 207 244 2255
Room Type: DOUBLE / TWIN (1-2 PEOPLE)
Rate Plan: RACK RATE
30-06-2012 RACK 221.00 0.00
221.00
01-07-2012 RACK 175.00 0.00
175.00
________________________________________
Average Rate Per Stay: 198.00
Stay: 396.00
Total Stay: 396.00 GBP
Policy Information: Your credit card will be charged 221.00 GBP ( First Night's plus applicable taxes )
if you cancel the reservation after 2:00 PM on
28-06-2012
Check-in Time: 14:00
Check-out Time: 11:00
Fax: +44 (0) 20 7244
2256
email: info@base2stay.com
website: www.base2stay.com/Kensington
Winner of the TripAdvisor Travellers’ Choice 2011 Awards for
Best Family Friendly Hotel.
After getting settled in our room—by about 5:00 PM or
so—we’ll take the Tube from Earl’s Court station (Piccadilly Line) to
Hammersmith (or walk) for the 6:30 PM Ronnie Wood & Friends tribute concert
to Chicago’s Chess Records at the HMV Hammersmith Apollo on Queen Caroline
Street, directly opposite the Broadway Shopping Centre. Hammersmith tube and
bus stations are within the shopping centre. There are trains scheduled from
Earl’s Court at 5:16, :19, :22, :25, :28 & :31; the ride is only 6 minutes.
We’ve purchased the tickets for the show from home via Ticketmaster: Section
Circle BLK2, Row O, Seats 57 & 58. Total cost was £111.50 for two. Show
starts at 6:30 PM. If time permits, we can grab a bite for dinner near the
Hammersmith Apollo, or do so at the concert.
DAY ELEVEN (SUN 1.7): LONDON
Sleep In; Breakfast & Shopping at Spitalfields Sunday
Market; Boleyn Ground/Upton Park
We’ll sleep in this morning (until about 9:30 AM if we
like), and take the Tube from Earl’s Court to Spitalfields Market, a large,
historic East End market (shops, vendors & food, outdoor & in) that
began in the 13th Century. Sunday is the market’s biggest day. We’ll take the
Piccadilly Line from Earl’s Court towards Arnos Grove or Cockfosters; then
change at Holborn Station to the Central Line towards Epping or Hainault or
Newbury Park to Liverpool Street Station, close to the market (29 minutes
total, including transfer time).
After a few hours (including breakfast, strolling &
shopping), we’ll take the Tube from Liverpool Street Station to Upton Park to
visit the Boleyn Ground (West Ham): take the Hammersmith & City Line toward
White Chapel to Upton Park (a 20 minute journey with 0 changes).
We could have a pint near the park (Hammers’ fans on Twitter
suggest the Black Lion Pub, Plaistow Broadway), look around a bit, and then
return to the hotel for a siesta via tube or taxi.
To return from Upton Park to our hotel via Tube, take the
District Line toward Richmond or Ealing Broadway to Earl’s Court (a 44 minute
journey, with 0 changes).
Then we’ll enjoy a siesta back at the hotel.
Our Last Night: Dinner; St. James Park
We’ll have dinner tonight in nearby Earl’s Court. We can
consider Zizzi Italian restaurant (194 Earl’s Court Road;
http://zizzi.co.uk/venuefinder) OR Dragon Palace Chinese Restaurant (207 Earl’s
Court Rd; http://www.thedragonpalace.com) OR As Greek As It Gets (233 Earl’s
Court Rd; http://www.asgreekasitgets.co.uk).
After dinner, we’ll take the Tube from Earl’s Court to St.
James Park (Green, District Line toward either Barking, Upminster or Tower
Hill; 10-11 minutes, 0 changes), where we’ll take a stroll through the park,
feed the ducks, and enjoy the evening in Westminster before returning home to
pack for our morning departure.
FLIGHT (MON 2.7): FLY LONDON, ENGLAND TO CHICAGO, USA
We’ll rise by 6:45 AM this morning, shower, check-out of the
hotel, and meet our pre-arranged black cab in front for the 30-minute ride to
Heathrow-Terminal 3 (about £50). We’ll check bags and board our 11:00 AM
non-stop flight (Virgin Atlantic Airways Flight VS39, arriving in Chicago at
1:55 PM, an 8 hr 55 min flight). We should get back to Lincoln Park today by
about 3:30 PM.
IMPORTANT NOTES
Phoning U.S. using an international phone card we purchase
in Europe: call the number on the card, and enter your PIN when prompted; then
enter 001-area code-seven digit US number.
Weather: the average high temperature in York and Edinburgh
in late June-early July is about 64 degrees Fahrenheit; average high in
Inverness is 62 degrees; average high in Pitlochry is 65. Night-time lows in
Scotland will be in the high 40s. London high averages 75.
Emergencies, go to any phone and dial 999 for the police AND
for medical emergencies
Tipping: Tip about 10% in restaurants unless service charge
included; only tip for full table service, not bar service. Simply round up for
taxis.
TRIP BUDGET AS OF 9 APRIL 2012
Based on $1.67 US per GBP
- Airfare: $2,115.42 US TOTAL
- Lodging: (11 nights: 2 York, 3 Edinburgh, 3 Inverness, 1 Pitlochry & 2 London): 1,500 GBP or $2,505 US TOTAL
- Transportation (buses, trains, taxis): 225 GBP (taxis, local trains, cab to Heathrow upon departure) or $372 US + $763 US for Britrail Passes (1st Class) = $1,140 US TOTAL
- Entrance Fees/Tours: 450 GBP or $750 TOTAL
- Per Diem (meals & shopping): 150 GBP per day x 11 = 1,650 GBP or $2,755 US TOTAL
TOTAL COST OF TRIP: $9,265.0 US for 1 Couple